Type: Trad
FA: Rob Candelaria and Pat Ament
Page Views: 2,391 total · 11/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Nov 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Start as for Prince of Darkness. This is the right-angling crack on the top buttress of the West Ridge. Scramble up to the base of the crack, place one or two big pieces and pull up into the crack. Follow the crack to the arete and then up to a belay ledge. Be careful setting up the belay as the blocks are big but detached. Walk off towards the gully.

Protection

Camalots (1, 2, 3, 3.5 and 4) plus a few nuts. Extra #2 and 0.75 Camalots for belay.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Surprising pump for just a 5.9, perhaps better bigger crack technique. Mar 21, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This diagonal crack is a real arm pump out as footholds are hard to come by. Harder for the leader, too, as they have to stop and fiddle with pro (follower can usually just yank-n-go). Mar 21, 2002
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
  5.9
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
  5.9
With a double runner at the far right roof you can link P1 and P2. Easy walk off. Jun 1, 2008
pfwein
Boulder, CO
pfwein   Boulder, CO
If you sprint it, feels pretty easy for grade, if you go slow, you may get torched. May 18, 2009