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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born Under Punches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bushwack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chock Suey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Kyle Lefkoff & Leigh "Manuel" McGinley, 1987
Page Views: 1,247 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Start as for Muscular Dystrophy, but where MD cuts left 12' up from the handcrack to a finger crack, place a 2" or 2.5" cam and cut ever so slightly left to a flake and seam. A questionable medium nut can go behind the flake, and up and high right some micro cams or a small TCU can be placed with a little reach, in an open spot in the seam. This is visible from the ground. Move up past those moves (10a, crux?) to a stance where you can reach around to the right and set a few nuts in a crack for the right hand (hard to see until you look for it) which are good nuts. Pull up and layback on this hold a tad (10a? maybe this is the crux) to reach for positive holds above, then do the easy moves from there to the belay on the ledge above. You can finish on Laughing At The Moon or Muscular Dystrophy.

Rossiter's description and topo are poor. The position of the route is clear, but there are a few issues: 1) The route is sure easy for 10b (9+/10a, my partner agreed) 2) The route is well protected for an S (partner agreed) 3) There is no fixed pin, which was prominent in the description and topo.

Protection

The route was rated S in Rossiter's books. The books also mention a fixed pin, which is not there and has not been for a while.

Nonetheless, the route protects reasonably on some small-to-mediam nuts and micro-cams. I placed the bottom 2 sizes of micro-Camalots and then a #7 BD nut next to a BD copper-steel nut (#4?). That was the hard part. I got a few nuts in later as well. I never felt as though I was risking a long fall.

Photos

jmeizis
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+ PG13
jmeizis   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Fun route, a little exciting but there is more gear than it appears from the ground. Wasn't sure I was going to do it, because from the ground, there looks to be no gear, but once you get going, there are plenty of opportunities. Plan on using lots of small gear and working for your placements. Feb 19, 2013
Ben Burnett
Colorado
5.9+
Ben Burnett   Colorado
5.9+
PG Plenty of gear, but there were a few pieces I didn't want to test. Probably wouldn't get hurt, though Oct 14, 2012
Andy Kowles
Longtuckles
  5.10a
Andy Kowles   Longtuckles
  5.10a
A 60m will work to link all the way up through 'Laughing'. Walk off. Sick link up that can be done with a standard Eldo rack. Recommend this to 5.10- Eldo onsighters for sure.
#1 TCU/Mastercam-ish placement below the low crux is good (I tested it). Nov 7, 2011
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
  5.10a
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
  5.10a
A nice pitch and with long runners above the crux section can easily be linked with Laughing at the Moon into a 60m three star 5.10 or go a little left and straight up after the ledge to reach the anchor at the top of the 'second pitch" of Muscular Dystrophy for a 25m rappel/top-rope.

Micro cams C3 #1 and 0 below and a #4 micro stopper at the crux make it a solid pro sew-up. No need for a pin- well worth doing alone or a nicer start to MD. Jun 2, 2009
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
I second the recommendation to link this with the upper pitch of LATM. I used a 70m rope, but a 60m might work. A great ~200ft pitch.... Feb 8, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Scott, That "short flat blade" you mention would probably occupy the space where the bomber #7 stopper I mentioned goes. The climb is not runout. If a pin is replaced and over time becomes questionable (which it will), the gear will be lacking in desirability. I say let the climber place his pro and place it well.

I don't think that you will say a good #7 stopper won't hold a fall, so... As far as trusting microcams and their ability to hold goes.... I don't have bats between my ears. Yes, you've been climbing for a lot longer than me, and climbing harder at that, but we've both been climbing since before the little cams were invented, and it seems a majority of people think that they are pretty good. I'm not talking #00 Friends (aid pieces) I am talking the red and yellow micro-Camalots. They will hold if the rock does. Nov 18, 2004
adam brink
Boulder, CO
adam brink   Boulder, CO
Does every route have to have protection every ten feet? Why would you want to ruin a fine (though not great) natural line with some fixed gear? The climbing is fairly secure and easy, so what if you have to run it out a tad (and only a tad). Nov 18, 2004
S. Kimball
  5.10a
S. Kimball  
  5.10a
You internet guys must have bats between your ears if you think this is well protected.... I say put that short/fat blade back where it belongs and don't kid yourself about those micro cams.... Nov 17, 2004
kyle lefkoff
  5.9
kyle lefkoff  
  5.9
The pin was courtesy of Leigh "Manuel" McGinley and me in 1987. The new Rossiter guide hadn't come out yet, the route was dirty and poorly protected before the crux, and the were lots of new bolt routes going in. So we climbed it in trad style ground up, placed the pin on lead, and named it "Lone Justice". Rossiter published the next year and correctly identified it as the Bat, noted the pin, and incorrectly rated it 10- s.

I agree that it is a better start to Laughing or MD. May 18, 2004
Huge rails up a short route. Easy 5.9. Soft touch for the grade. Nov 8, 2003
The first 30' are nice, steep climbing. I agree that the crux is not S and that the old rating of 5.9+ is more like it. However, some quality and an S can be added to the route, by continuing straight up a 5.8ish slab (no pro, ledge ) after the crux rather than going up the easy corner to the left. By itself, this climb is a solid one star. Jul 7, 2003
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
Just backing up Tony's assessment. For sure not "S", for sure not 5.10b, and definitely no pin; however, I think it's two stars when combined with Laughing at the Moon in one pitch. Kick ass! Aug 19, 2002