Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | R. & J. [Rossiter], 1983 |
Page Views: | 1,695 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 6, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This climb is a good finish to Chockstone, a route that is otherwise a great climb with a ho-hum finish. From the last "good part" of Chockstone, the 5.9 thin dihedral up top, you reach a ledge with a easy, messy trough that leads to a tree and rap station. Instead of doing this, look left to a shallow, right-facing dihedral with a clean, thin crack. This pitch is reasonably well chalked. Start up and reach the crux at mid-pitch, stepping right at a bulge. Finish up top. Just up and left of the top of the pitch is the only decent gear to belay off of, and this top ledge does have some loose blocks that could kill those below. Though these are easily avoided, one must be vigilant up there.
To descend: A) scramble delicately down 20' to the tree above the top of Chockstone, then [rap] down to the east 25m to another tree, then 30m to the ground. B) work your way E/SE down a broken ledge system to below the climb Whiplash (above Xanadu), and continue past that point to scramble down a gully to the ground. Again, there are potentially dangerous loose rocks and, odds are, several people below.
To descend: A) scramble delicately down 20' to the tree above the top of Chockstone, then [rap] down to the east 25m to another tree, then 30m to the ground. B) work your way E/SE down a broken ledge system to below the climb Whiplash (above Xanadu), and continue past that point to scramble down a gully to the ground. Again, there are potentially dangerous loose rocks and, odds are, several people below.
Protection
Gear as for Chockstone (required to approach). This particular pitch requires gear starting with RPs and moving to medium stoppers and small TCUs to 1". A 1.5" or 2" piece can be placed near the crux, but equally good gear can be had in the smaller ranges.
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