Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: R. & J. [Rossiter], 1983
Page Views: 1,066 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 6, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This climb is a good finish to Chockstone, a route that is otherwise a great climb with a ho-hum finish. From the last "good part" of Chockstone, the 5.9 thin dihedral up top, you reach a ledge with a easy, messy trough that leads to a tree and rap station. Instead of doing this, look left to a shallow, right-facing dihedral with a clean, thin crack. This pitch is reasonably well chalked. Start up and reach the crux at mid-pitch, stepping right at a bulge. Finish up top. Just up and left of the top of the pitch is the only decent gear to belay off of, and this top ledge does have some loose blocks that could kill those below. Though these are easily avoided, one must be vigilant up there.

To descend: A) scramble delicately down 20' to the tree above the top of Chockstone, then [rap] down to the east 25m to another tree, then 30m to the ground. B) work your way E/SE down a broken ledge system to below the climb Whiplash (above Xanadu), and continue past that point to scramble down a gully to the ground. Again, there are potentially dangerous loose rocks and, odds are, several people below.

Protection

Gear as for Chockstone (required to approach). This particular pitch requires gear starting with RPs and moving to medium stoppers and small TCUs to 1". A 1.5" or 2" piece can be placed near the crux, but equally good gear can be had in the smaller ranges.

Photos

Peter Lundgren
Boulder, CO
 
Peter Lundgren   Boulder, CO
 
This pitch was fun; give it a try.

The first half of this pitch is a fun finger crack. It's easy to climb but challenging to protect without relying on blind placements. My partner and I thought it was 5.9/10a.

The second half of the pitch is awful, unfun, and full of death blocks. Be careful!!! Nov 20, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
With small cams, this protects just fine. Also, it is probably 10a. I suspect that the 10c rating reflected in books past and present does not include the easy and obvious reaches out to the right or stems thereto.

One can lead chockstone P1/2 into Chock Suey as a single 50m pitch with fairly minimal drama or drag. Jul 7, 2018