Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Dan Hare and Jim Michael, 1975
Page Views: 9,807 total · 35/month
Shared By: Tyler Jones on Jun 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

The route ascends an obvious dihedral about 20 feet to the right (and around a corner) of Chockstone. Rossiter gives the first pitch a 5.7, and IMO I think it deserves a 5.8. It's awkward and a little bit more strenuous than a 5.7 would be.

P1 (7). Climb the dihedral (the lower one, the crack above it is Joke Crack 11c). I actually used Joke Crack to stem my foot out for the first half, either way, it's awkward but yet fun. Gain the ledge and traverse over a couple of feet to set up the belay.

P2 (9). The crux is right away. If you can find a way to get a stopper or an RP in, continue to the right up a corner to a hand crack. Follow this hand jam crack all the way up to the tree.

Protection Suggest change

Bring cams from #0.5 to 3 (Camalots). Doubles in #1 and 2 would be very helpful. The top of the first pitch has a good spot between two rocks (on the right side of the ledge) for a couple large stoppers and some tricams for a perfect anchor.