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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Born Under Punches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bushwhack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chock Suey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Trad, 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| FA: | Dan Hare and Jim Michael, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 10,063 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Jones on Jun 10, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The route ascends an obvious dihedral about 20 feet to the right (and around a corner) of Chockstone. Rossiter gives the first pitch a 5.7, and IMO I think it deserves a 5.8. It's awkward and a little bit more strenuous than a 5.7 would be.
P1 (7). Climb the dihedral (the lower one, the crack above it is Joke Crack 11c). I actually used Joke Crack to stem my foot out for the first half, either way, it's awkward but yet fun. Gain the ledge and traverse over a couple of feet to set up the belay.
P2 (9). The crux is right away. If you can find a way to get a stopper or an RP in, continue to the right up a corner to a hand crack. Follow this hand jam crack all the way up to the tree.
P1 (7). Climb the dihedral (the lower one, the crack above it is Joke Crack 11c). I actually used Joke Crack to stem my foot out for the first half, either way, it's awkward but yet fun. Gain the ledge and traverse over a couple of feet to set up the belay.
P2 (9). The crux is right away. If you can find a way to get a stopper or an RP in, continue to the right up a corner to a hand crack. Follow this hand jam crack all the way up to the tree.
Protection
Bring cams from #0.5 to 3 (Camalots). Doubles in #1 and 2 would be very helpful. The top of the first pitch has a good spot between two rocks (on the right side of the ledge) for a couple large stoppers and some tricams for a perfect anchor.
Per Gregger Man: the anchor bolts atop P2 were added in 2009 with 1/2" x 2.5" plated 5-piece bolts with SS hangers. There is one double-ring hanger and one with a chain and ring.
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