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Between the Cracks
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Born Under Punches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bushwhack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chock Suey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 39.93325, -105.28897 |
| FA: | Wayne Crill and Brad Durbin, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,543 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Wayne Crill on Mar 6, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
I have been told by people in the know, that this line, unbelievable as it may be, apparently has never been led. I do know of at least two parties however who have toproped the line, and I presume there might be more. This route begins 15' L of Knight's Move at a seam splitting an overhang 10' above the trail. A #6 Camalot in the horizontal crack/slot to the L protects the initial crux pulling over the overhang onto the face. Once established on the face, look for a good nut placement in the seam, and continue up the crack and face with moderate climbing and adequate gear to a fun delicate finish at the choss band just below KM’s p2 V-slot. The PG13 comes from the crux start, the big cam should keep you off the ground, but it would be a potentially awkward swinging fall into a dihedral. Once on the face there is plenty of gear when you need it.
An anchor can be set up in the crack at the start of p2 of KM to bring the second up, or easier, just place a TR directional here and traverse 30’ R to the anchor atop Chockstone and descend to the ground to belay. Both of the first ascentionists led the pitch placing gear.
Location
The route is located at the very top of the West Ridge, ~15’ to the L of Knight’s Move, locate an obvious seam through a roof 10’ off the ground which opens to a small crack paralleling p1 of Knight’s Move and terminating 60’ up at the base of Knight’s Move’s p2 V-slot.
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