Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: Alec Sharp, Matt Lavender, 1981
Page Views: 1,653 total · 13/month
Shared By: Scott Bennett on Oct 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Another fine Alec Sharp horror-show! Ministry of Fear climbs the thin offset seam on the steep, neon green wall just right of "Purple Haze" and "Born under Punches". Climb up the easy, chossy slab up to a chossy roof. Make a big move to a good hold on the lip of the roof, then a fun hand traverse right to the base of the seam. Tenuous lay-backing up the thin offsets leads to an insecure crux move, then a big jug. Mantel up onto the ledge, then scramble left to join "Purple Haze".

There is very little potential for protection, it should be considered a true free solo. The only possibilities I saw:

-Good cams way out left, below the roof. They might protect the big move to the lip, but would do you no good once the seam is reached.

-A couple of small RPs behind a semi-attatched flake in the crack. They'd theoretically protect the crux, but they're very marginal, and would still leaves some hard, tenuous climbing unprotected below.

-I didn't see where they'd go, but apparently Mr. Sharp led this with pre-placed duct-taped hooks?!

-Possibly a thin blade or RURP in the base of the seam?

Protection

Hope, Faith, and Love...

or, for mortals, set up a Toprope! Climb "Purple Haze" or "Friends in High Places", lower off the new 2-bolt anchor atop these routes (thanks!). Swing right, and locate a fixed pin on a small ledge above the route. A small cam backs the pin up.

Photos