Avg: 2.5 from 62 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||C. Reveley & J. Serles, 1974|
|Page Views:||3,016 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Feb 14, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
This route is the upper-most route on the South Face of the West Ridge, and ascends the dihedral and face on the top southwest arete of the West Ridge formation. This is between the more popular routes Muscular Dystrophy (on the right) and Prince Of Darkness (around the corner on the left). This climb is easily identified by a "cat claw" flake capping the dihedral, 50' off of the ground.
The climb starts from the ground as a low-angle left facing dihedral on good finger locks. Follow this dihedral up about 50' or so to an obvious "cat claw" flake. This flake is large, detached, pointed and is leaning outward. Close inspection revealed that the base of the flake was in a good socket, and in my opinion it is of little real threat or concern to anyone. Use your own judgement, however.
Pitch 1: Climb the dihedral through solid stone (5.8) for 50' before moving up and under the flake. Pass the flake on the right (5.8-) and up to a good belay ledge. Belay here or continue on Pitch 2.
Pitch 2: Ascend up and left to the left hand edge of the low-angle face above with no protection. Climb the line of least resistance (5.6) for 30+ feet until you reach a left facing dihedral, where gear is available (5.5). Shoot for the top.
A variation with harder moves is to go straight up the left side of the cat-claw flake on pitch 1, hand and fist jamming through the overhang it creates. This variation (5.9+) will set you up better to climb the entire route in a single pitch (less drag) if you use the right runners to keep your rope out of the crack.
If you are disturbed by the lack of protection on the second pitch, you can wander to the right and back, clipping the 2 bolts on Laughing At The Moon. It is 5.9 to do so, and you will be some ways from them. You could also simply finish on Laughing At The Moon (5.10b)
To descend, walk off in the gully between the West Ridge and Shirt Tail Peak.