Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J. and R. Rossiter, 1986
Page Views: 174 total · 1/month
Shared By: S. Kimball on Oct 15, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Start from the tree 30' above Muscular Dystrophy

P1. Up the right hand of 2 dihedrals a right-facing, thin corner with textbook but difficult to see, RP protection, 5.10-. Continue around a pigeon shit-coated, handcrack and stem up and right over a small roof (5.10-) with a good hand crack and edges. Belay 15' higher, [on top of] a flake wedged between 2 thin cracks, tiny stance but excellent stopper/TCU anchors.

P2. 5.7 ground leads to a [loose V] slot. Finish with a short but steep 5.9 hand and finger crack in a right-facing dihedral.

Walk off. Quite enjoyable despite some looseness and pigeon poo.

Protection

Set of RPs. Standard rack to 3".

Photos

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Most people will consider the lower corner to be S. Jul 28, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I agree with David. I remember the lower dihedral being unprotected, although it's not the crux. Still, it's probably 5.9 and a bad place to fall. I thought Byobu had been lost in Rossiter's guide (it is not in the index) until I noticed it had been renamed. Apr 12, 2004
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
  5.10a
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
  5.10a
I didn't think this warranted an "S" rating. It protects pretty well with rp's. The real danger is the loose upper section which brings the two star climbing down a notch. Nov 7, 2004
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Having ditched the RPs and not having the heuvos to lead the right dihedral I chose to start out on the left dihedral then move right at the 'split' of the dihedrals then onto the pigeon crap crack which was fun. I did not lead the last pitch, but, from what I saw, looked scary and challenging. Mar 21, 2005
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
I thought the climbing in the dihedral was a little dirty but still fun. The pigeon crack was horrible, which is too bad, because otherwise it would have been fun. The second pitch was a choss pile, with one decent move. I would not do this route again. Oct 12, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Still full of bird poo as of today. Mar 4, 2012