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Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu

A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born Under Punches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bushwack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chock Suey T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,794 total, 19/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Up at the top of the West Ridge, this route has nice position. The first pitch is easy 5.9, then comes a nice crux. It is very technical, but not sustained, a 3-move sequence with a big gravity bill waiting for anyone who doesn't keep their eyes and mind wide open. It seems a little harder than some area 5.11a's, but again, the crux is short.

Protection

The pro solid for someone of average height. The crux is a bomber small-medium (#6BD) nut placement above the head that is at the feet when the crux is completed. Take a normal rack with 2 big-hand-sized cams for the jams getting up to the crux.
My first 11a lead in Eldo...seemed like a good place to start. Did pitches 1/2 together and was able to rappel with a 60m rope from the top of pitch 2, just after the crux. I placed a 3 and a 3.5 in the top of the wide crack just below where the crack disappears. Then I pulled up and used a face hold to the left and then right before swinging my feet up an over to the right. My partner thought I might be off route. Any comments? Jun 8, 2013
mtoensing
Boulder
  5.10+
mtoensing   Boulder
  5.10+
I'm surprised that this climb doesn't get more stars. All of the rock is really good. It is short though. The crux was really straightforward for me, not awkward at all. I climbed the upper crack straight in with both feet in the crack. Anchor up top is in good shape. Nov 13, 2011
Devan Johnson  
5.10+
Gets my vote for the softest 11 at Eldo.... Feb 24, 2011
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
I've done this one a few times, and something interesting that I noticed - if the sun is shining on it, for some reason I have a harder time seeing certain holds (like the important ones...). Kind of weird. Agree with those above who recommend for an entry level 11 at Eldo, as the protection is very good. Nov 22, 2010
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
+1 on Guy H's beta. I like using an old style 3.5 cam in the pod at the end of the crack. It's a tight fit but a new #4 C4 also works in the same place. Nov 21, 2010
Bill Flaherty
Evergreen, CO
 
Bill Flaherty   Evergreen, CO
 
One more gear option at the crux: a little red C3. I can attest to the fact that this placement will hold 185 downward-bound pounds. Agreed that it's good for the aspiring 11- leader in that the gear is so solid at the short crux. Oct 14, 2009
FCJohn
Fort Collins, CO
 
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
 
Agreed with above. A good route for someone looking to break into 11s at Eldo.

Short technical crux which isn't powerful, just sequency with good gear. Oct 23, 2006
Shane Zentner
Colorado
 
Shane Zentner   Colorado
 
Challenging and difficult. (2) #3 Camalots under the crux, a blue Alien at the crux. Oct 3, 2004
adam francis
  5.11a
adam francis  
  5.11a
There is currently a microwave sized very loose block on the belay ledge beneath the crux. It seems the whole ledge has recently undergone some erosion that has loosened up the block. If someone can safley trundle it, it would be good public service. If you are climbing the first pitch, be really careful when you get to the ledge Jun 14, 2004
Mark Ferguson
  5.11a
Mark Ferguson  
  5.11a
Fixed nut is no longer there, it came out easily with the poke of a nut tool. May 17, 2004
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11a
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11a
There is a new fixed nut at the crux. My partner logged a little air time. Next time, I will bring only a #3 and #3.5 Camalot for the wide crack. The 3.5 fits in a pod at the end of the wide crack. Mar 27, 2004
Joe Collins
  5.11a
Joe Collins  
  5.11a
Very fun 5.9 climbing to a short crux. Physical jamming to a hard move. I agree with Tony... there are definitely easier 11a's at Eldo. Sep 22, 2003
david goldstein
  5.10d
david goldstein  
  5.10d
The first pitch is quite nice. The second pitch is an overrated one move wonder. That said, in view of the excellent pro throughout, this would be a good canidate for a first Eldo "11" lead.

Crux is brief and awkward. May be easier for those closer to the ground. Jul 4, 2003
On Cinco De Mayo 2003 there was a good fixed nut at the crux. May 6, 2003
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
I did this climb this morning. This 2 star route is a good choice for an aspiring 11- leader. The crux is not too long, not too hard and not too generic. Also, as the reviewer stated, the gear is bomber. All the pitches are short and the belay ledges are nice. It is possible to rap from some fixed slings at the top of P2 (it wouldn't hurt for someone to replace 1 of them), but the 3rd pitch is worth doing and the walk-off is very easy. For P3, basically head slightly left, then up to the crack. Aug 12, 2001