PRINT: Rock Climb Jericho, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Jericho

5.11c R, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.7 from 12 votes
FA: Chris Reveley and George Hurley
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > W Ridge > W Ridge - part E - to…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Some are content to climb only the classic routes of Eldorado that are chalked from top to bottom and worn smooth from the pitons of yesterday and the loving hands and feet of today. This is a classic Eldorado route of a different nature. It is unlikely to have chalk and the exquisite dihedral on the second pitch appears to never have been pitoned. This dihedral is how the first pitch of the Naked Edge might have looked before all the enthusiastic hammering occurred during the Golden Age.

This route is located between Knight's Move and Black Out and contains an obvious flared, slightly overhanging dihedral on its second pitch.

Pitch 1 (5.9 s): Begin on Knight's Move and after ten feet cut out left on dubious flakes and lichen covered terrain, sling a small tree and then head straight up thin cracks (RPs) on the arete to a terrible belay stance. Load up the crack in the dihedral with tiny nuts and put in some better gear (#1.5 and #2 Friends) down and right from the stance. It might be wiser to do a hanging belay from the cams down and to the right. Either way, it's not a great place to be hanging out.

Pitch 2 (5.11c s): The second pitch climbs straight up the steep, beautiful dihedral which is too small to accept fingers. Intially the dihedral protects with RPs and the smallest TCUs. A "thank god" fixed nut is located about 10 feet up and the belayer's nervous twitches and spasms should subside when it's clipped and they are no longer the landing zone for the leader. I give the start of this pitch a "serious" rating. A combination of stemming, pressing, scumming and squirmming is required to gain ground. Just when this combination becomes bleak there are some face holds outside the dihedral on the left hand side. Climb through a small roof and make some hard moves with much better gear. Continue over easier terrain up and right to a ledge with a tree festooned with rappel slings.

Descend by rapping Knight's Move. A 60m rope will just make the first of two rappels

Protection

Lots of small gear - 2 sets RPs #00 & #0 TCUs plus standard Eldo rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jericho.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

david goldstein

An excellent climb, esp. for the West Ridge. P1 is a legitimate S, but is pretty easy for the grade. P2 is quite well protected, starting w/ RPs and working up to bigger nuts. As of this writing, very little chalk to guide the way on this one. The belay at the end of pitch 1 is not that bad.

Two good pitches, very little crap rock -- a West Ridge three star. Jul 4, 2003

Adam Brink
trying to get to Sardinia

While this is a great route, don't expect much room for mistakes. You should be at your best when you do this one. A fall in the opening moves of the second pitch could very easily rip any small gear out (its not really that great) and maybe even the belay (it would probably hold but do you want to be the one to test it?). The sketchy gear aside, this is a wonderful climb and sustained by eldo standards. Oct 21, 2003

topher donahue
Nederland, CO

The crux feels way safer if you take extra long slings, be careful of how you run the rope on the first pitch, and link both pitches as one 55 meter lead. It goes super smooth as one pitch and makes a lot more sense - unless you are using a 150' rope like Chris and George probably were on the FA. Nov 23, 2008