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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
High Anxiety T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Verschneidung Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Sport, 90 ft Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Wayne Crill, Kevin Gallagher, 2003
Page Views: 3,979 total · 21/month
Shared By: Wayne Crill on Jan 4, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Wild Turkey climbs up the face and overhanging arête to the right of Wingshot in the alcove area. The route is high quality, challenging climbing with modern quality bolted protection, and spectacular position above the creek. The route gets good sun all winter, though its frequently very windy. Scramble up to the alcove area from near the boulder traverse along the trail and to the base of Blues Power and Wingshot. Follow the break to the right below the blocky magenta band at the start of wing shot for about 40' to find a small, exposed ledge, the turkey perch, overlooking the creek.

From the turkey perch, it is best to reach up and clip the first bolt before begining the climbing proper. Climb onto the steep face moving up and left past a detached undercling flake (careful!) to a left leaning crack from which the second bolt can easily be clipped. Continue up to positive holds at a rock scar then up and right to a large flake in the broken band. Powerful and sustained climbing up the steep bulgy arête past 3 more bolts deposits you at a stance on the vertical face above the arête. Continue straight up the delicate face to a two-bolt ring anchor.

This route was "originally" established in the "head point" style, placing all traditional gear and clipping 20 yr old bolts in the upper section on lead. Three bolts were added to the begining of this climb and all of the old existing bolts replaced in September 2006. Unfortunately, the anchors are difficult to reach from the top of the climb so setting up a TR requires a short rappel from the summit to the anchors proper. Rossiter lists this route as Thunder Construction, a long abandoned project.

Protection

Gear: 9 quickdraws.

Photos

Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.11d
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.11d
Wild Turkey was approved for additional and replacement bolts by ACE and the Park system summer of 2006. Three bolts were added to the bottom of this line and the old less-than-inspiring upper bolts replaced with new ones. As a result this line is now 5.11+/5.12a with no 'r' or 's' rating. It is well-protected with 7 lead climbing bolts and a two bolt rappel anchor at the very top of the vertical face. A natural gear anchor can be made at the base in the magenta break where the climb begins. It is recommended to clip the first bolt from this belay-break ramp before you begin the climbing. Climb up onto the steep face past bulgy overhanging rock and 6 bolts to gain a stance on the vertical face above. Then climb ~15 feet straight up the face to the anchors where the angle eases off.

Wishbone (5.11), which shares the same belay was recently established up the steep face to the right of Wild Turkey, and Kickin' Chicken (5.12b s) climbs through the first 5 bolts of Wild Turkey and moves left with natural gear to gain the steep left-angling crack above. Nov 10, 2006
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
More like 12a Wayne & Kevin. I haven't led it since the routes bolts were upgraded and finished, but I've heard things. Good things. While it was great fun, in a funnily protected sort of way, I can't wait to see how it rides with all the new gear in place, The best part of this route however (in my opinion) is that it sets the stage for "Kickin Chicken" 12b. Yessiree! I'll comment on that route on that page. Nice one boys. Nov 22, 2006
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.12a
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.12a
Put it away this morning. Awesome climb for sure. I can't imagine leading this route before the lower three bolts were put in! Yikes... The finish is really nice requiring balance and good footwork. Aug 28, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
The ACE application Aug 28, 2007
Steve Annecone
boulder
 
Steve Annecone   boulder
 
This is an outstanding line with some of the best exposure and position in Eldo! Very pumpy and sustained throughout the first half, with a powerful and (to me) desperate crux reach to a jug near the 5th bolt. Pulling over the lip onto the slab felt really hard (11+), and the climbing from there felt like sustained 5.11 slab to the anchor. Very nice route! May 6, 2009