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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Chris Reveley and John Ruger, 1974
Page Views: 1,625 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

At the base of the West Ridge there is a big amphitheater, just up and across the stream. This is seen in the very right hand edge of the attached photo, although the routes are obscured by shadow. The broken rock hanging in the amphitheater makes it look daunting. None the less, there are a few good lines through it; Wingshot is one of them.

Cross the stream and head up the trail until a foot-worn path leads up and right, as for the approach of Allosaur. You will walk and scramble to the slab below the amphitheater. If you arrive at the base of Allosaur, traverse down and right to reach the slab below Wingshot.

At the lower right end of the amphitheater there is a broken overhang that goes to a few underclngs, then to a thin hands and finger crack on the left side of an inset, past a yellow and blue fixed sling on a chockstone, and then up and left past a roof to a fixed anchor with chains. This anchor is above Office Girls Walk the Plank and Blues Power (12a).

Climb the line as described. Lower from the anchors. If you will have a partner follow, please feed the rope directly- use biners & save the anchor.

Shot And Chaser is a great extension and finish to the route, and is considerably easier than the 5.11 grade which it is given in the rossiter book, but is earned on this first pitch.

Protection

Not a handcrack at all. One large cam (#4 Camalot) for the broken area at the base, cams 1" -2" for the area around the crux sequence (1" crux at the crux move), and a few nuts or small tricams. A 2"-2.5" cam was great in the only placement in the otherwise runout finish to the left.

Photos

WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Getting a solid kneebar entering the crux brought this climb to 11- for me. Two strenuous moves to no hands rest at the chockstones.

If heading left (easier exit), continue up 8/9 climbing to the top.

You can pull the next roof at about 9+ with a #3 and hit the upper anchors. May 15, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Dave,
If you are more than 5 feet from good gear- it is your choice, not the climb. The crux goes with gear at your ankles, at worst, but if memory serves, more like at your knees.

Bob,
I "flashbacked" the route (meaning didn't remember details or beta, and did it again) a few years ago. The route felt 11b. But I have thin hands so I can probably jam it better than most. It's 2 hard moves with some 5.10 around it, so I guess if you hit those moves the first time and you fit just right.... Oct 16, 2008
Bob Rotert
5.11
Bob Rotert  
5.11
Wayne, no offense taken here. I agree it's pinching hairs. Unless those grades are bouncing around towards the top of your scale. I like the 11-, 11, and 11+ rating system better as well. I guess I just found this thing to be more than a "hair" harder than I expected for an Eldo 11b.... And was looking for some validation, to see if some other folks, that had done it recently might concur that this more like solid 11. Cheers Bro!! Oct 22, 2007
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.11-
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.11-
Please please please don't no-one take this offensively, but related to Bob's comment, what is the difference between 11b and 11c? I mean that is possibly the most frequent grade I climb, and there are many routes I believe to be 11b and many 11c, then there are those that everyone else seems to believe are 11b and they sure feel like 11c or more to me, and vice-versa. Anyhow it seems like picking hairs to me . . thats why I like a three grade system, at least through 5.11: #-, the # grade, and #+. Four levels almost seems too refined given all the different strengths and weaknesses of different people. All that being said I think wingshot is hard and bouldery at its grade, WTF that is . . . and quite fun and worthy. but ALWAYS followed with a shot and a chaser which is just good fun for finishing . . . Oct 22, 2007
Bob Rotert
5.11
Bob Rotert  
5.11
I did this route recently. 10/15/07 Although many years past I use to go up to this area a lot to do Blues Power & Office Girls. I didn't remember doing this thing in the past and remember I had kind of scoffed at it thinking it wasn't really worth doing. Well, I got a big surprise today. I know I'm much weaker these days, but this thing sure didn't feel like any 11b today. I did it with Dave Ingersoll & we both felt it was upwards of 5.11c. I would certainly scoff at the 11b rating.... Interesting to see a post that a major hold had broken & no new posts about it since 2003, over four years later. I would be interested to see what other folks who have done this route lately "on sight" think about the rating now. Oct 15, 2007
slevin  
FA Chris Reveley and John Ruger 1974. They exited the Y-slot right; see "Shot and Chaser". Jan 26, 2007
I didn't notice any difference in difficulty minus the broken hold, but I've always just jammed the crack. Shot and Chaser is fun, great position, but much easier than Wingshot crux, and so easier than .11b. Jun 19, 2003
...The broken hold was right of a little slot which you grabbed with your right hand while lefty was in the thin crack. I thought this made the moves considerably easier. I also talked to a bunch of people who knew about the hold I was talking about. Maybe it doesn't need an upgrade. Still a good route. Apr 22, 2003
On 3/30/03 I pulled off the large undercling on the right making the crux quite a bit harder. A rating change is probably in order. Apr 3, 2003
And the ancient Leeper hanger on one of the bolts was replaced by a juicy, modern version. Good work. Oct 30, 2002
The blue anchor webbing went in June 2000 - it replaced some nasty chains. I dont know what the best solution is in the long run... a couple of juicy Mailon Rapides? Sep 30, 2002