Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m) Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Chris Reveley and John Ruger, 1974
Page Views: 2,012 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

At the base of the West Ridge there is a big amphitheater, just up and across the stream. This is seen in the very right hand edge of the attached photo, although the routes are obscured by shadow. The broken rock hanging in the amphitheater makes it look daunting. None the less, there are a few good lines through it; Wingshot is one of them.

Cross the stream and head up the trail until a foot-worn path leads up and right, as for the approach of Allosaur. You will walk and scramble to the slab below the amphitheater. If you arrive at the base of Allosaur, traverse down and right to reach the slab below Wingshot.

At the lower right end of the amphitheater there is a broken overhang that goes to a few underclngs, then to a thin hands and finger crack on the left side of an inset, past a yellow and blue fixed sling on a chockstone, and then up and left past a roof to a fixed anchor with chains. This anchor is above Office Girls Walk the Plank and Blues Power (12a).

Climb the line as described. Lower from the anchors. If you will have a partner follow, please feed the rope directly- use biners & save the anchor.

Shot And Chaser is a great extension and finish to the route, and is considerably easier than the 5.11 grade which it is given in the rossiter book, but is earned on this first pitch.

Protection

Not a handcrack at all. One large cam (#4 Camalot) for the broken area at the base, cams 1" -2" for the area around the crux sequence (1" crux at the crux move), and a few nuts or small tricams. A 2"-2.5" cam was great in the only placement in the otherwise runout finish to the left.

Photos