Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Eric Johnson, Chip Ruckgaber
Page Views: 511 total · 3/month
Shared By: eric johnson on Apr 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Twenty feet right of [Allosaur], near the base of the [West Ridge] locate a large flake detached from the wall. Climb on top of this and the route will become apparent. Moving above first one undercling then another following thin seam tending right to ledge that is followed left until the tree at the top of the first pitch [Allosaur] is gained. Rap 100 ft. This is a face climb protected by large friends in the two underclings (plus one obvious thread at the strart). On the first ascent the seam was not utilized for gear but a 00 cam , rp or slider might add comfort but not reduce the overall seriousness much. Have fun on this little headpiece.

Protection

Gear: 4, 3.5, 3 Camalots; RPs, [Aliens] maybe. Runner for tie off.

Photos

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eric johnson
  5.10d
eric johnson  
  5.10d
Just a note on gear. Once the ledge leading left is gained I placed first a 3.5 Camalot then a 1 Friend , a yellow TCU, slung a horn then finally a 2.5 Friend where the route intersects [Allosaur]. This section is easy but your second will be happy. It's also possibly an option to pad the intial flake because in the event of a fall before the second undercling it may come into play. Awaits a second ascent! Apr 26, 2003