Type: Trad, 170 ft, 3 pitches
FA: L. Kor, H. Sweeland, 1963
Page Views: 1,530 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

29 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


The second and third pitches of this route are easier to see from a distance than is the first pitch. If you can not locate the first pitch initially, try locating the upper pitches and working your way [down] to find the beginning.

The Initial Route begins just left of Allosaur and goes left (West) just around the corner just after beginning. The route's third pitch meets at the top with the end of the [route] Allosaur as well.

Find P1 by scrambling up onto the main ledge of the amphitheater. Just left of the start of [Allosaur] is a left-leaning rotten band. Pass this to the left to a second left-leaning band, which forms a bulge/overhang at the top of the band. You are standing just left of a small shrub, looking up at a left-facing flake in the overhang which creates a "notch" in the band, where the roof is smaller. Still left of you just a few feet more is another left-leaning band that goes around the corner into a large and much more ominous overhang... and you can see the gaping start of "Initial Hangover" cutting through it from here.)

P1: from where you stand, climb up and left on the face to intersect the overhanging band, and then even more left and up to reach a left-facing corner. The underclings around here are key. The pro is not great or quite where you want it, but this is easy climbing (5.5?). Climb up and left around the corner into a left-facing system which is more solid than it looks. Work your way up to build a belay for P2 after 60 feet total. You can continue on P2 if your drag is OK, and the next pitch does not look intimidating.

P2: look up into the flaring [squeeze] chimney. Step up on the ledge now behind you to reach up in and place a 0.5"- 1.0" cam where you can, without filling your fingerlocks. Now execute the crux of getting into the slot (5.8-5.10, height-dependent). This is very hard for short people, because they can not reach into it before they lose their footholds. Use the fingerlocks and armbars to get up into the crack. Rest and set gear, then struggle for the top of the crack this is easiest for me with my right side facing inward. Top out on a ledge with a fat juniper with a rap anchor. Belay at the tree or walk back to the obvious, clean, acute dihedral, which goes from vertical to low angle after 30 feet or so.

P3: climb the aforementioned dihedral for 60' or so (5.7?) to reach the top. The last few moves practically merge with the last moves of Allosaur, which came left from under the roofs to join your route.

There are multiple options for descent, as listed for Allosaur. Perhaps the best option to take if you've left packs up on the Amphitheater ledge is to scramble east, then South around the back side to arrive at the rap anchors above the amphitheater roof. Rap a single rope to the ground. A 50m cord should reach, but I've only tried 60-70m, so I am not 100% sure.


A standard rack: one set stoppers, one set cams with optional #4. Too much gear will make the crux on pitch #2 difficult to do.


Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
I'm of average height, 5'8", and found the move into the slot to be very difficult. It may be 5.9 if done with the perfect sequence, but it felt harder to me. Jan 30, 2010
Boulder, CO
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
I can definitely see how being tall helped on this route. Apr 25, 2012
Fiona Dunne
Boulder, CO
Fiona Dunne   Boulder, CO
When belaying your 2nd on the p2 chimney, note that they may need slack to get out gear if you clipped it with short draws deep in the chimney. It was hard to hear each other, and if you're belaying in autoblock mode, it's hard to feel a pull for slack and also hard to give slack safely. Being stuck there pulled tight into the crack for a long time was no fun. May 31, 2014
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
Definitely worth doing if you have done all the other routes in the area. The squeeze is actually pretty fun. At 5'11" I thought the 5.9- rating given by the guidebook was about right. Aug 11, 2014
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
I'm 5'5", and I found entering the slot very committing. Prepare for a grunt and scrape. Agree w/ Fiona above on gear. Rope got stuck in the slot and made for a lot of rope drag for belaying at the top. Also difficult for partner to clean. Oct 17, 2015
Found this hidden gem when perusing the book for something to do after Allosaur. If Grand Giraffe is 9+, then this is accurately graded at 9-. If you take the standard traverse in as if going to Allosaur, the start is just after you make a big step down past a juniper bush and just before the 15 feet of slab trending up and right. A #4 was nice on the third pitch and useless weight on the second. The easiest way down is to rap the same raps as Allosaur, which are up and left (NW) of the finish about 20 feet. Two raps, easy pulls.

On a historical note, Levin's guide says this is the first recorded route on the West Ridge and the only route on that ridge put up by Layton Kor. Nov 14, 2016