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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 3 pitches
FA: L. Kor, H. Sweeland, 1963
Page Views: 1,439 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The second and third pitches of this route are easier to see from a distance than is the first pitch. If you can not locate the first pitch initially, try locating the upper pitches and working your way [down] to find the beginning.

The Initial Route begins just left of Allosaur and goes left (West) just around the corner just after beginning. The route's third pitch meets at the top with the end of the [route] Allosaur as well.

Find P1 by scrambling up onto the main ledge of the amphitheater. Just left of the start of [Allosaur] is a left-leaning rotten band. Pass this to the left to a second left-leaning band, which forms a bulge/overhang at the top of the band. You are standing just left of a small shrub, looking up at a left-facing flake in the overhang which creates a "notch" in the band, where the roof is smaller. Still left of you just a few feet more is another left-leaning band that goes around the corner into a large and much more ominous overhang... and you can see the gaping start of "Initial Hangover" cutting through it from here.)

P1: from where you stand, climb up and left on the face to intersect the overhanging band, and then even more left and up to reach a left-facing corner. The underclings around here are key. The pro is not great or quite where you want it, but this is easy climbing (5.5?). Climb up and left around the corner into a left-facing system which is more solid than it looks. Work your way up to build a belay for P2 after 60 feet total. You can continue on P2 if your drag is OK, and the next pitch does not look intimidating.

P2: look up into the flaring [squeeze] chimney. Step up on the ledge now behind you to reach up in and place a 0.5"- 1.0" cam where you can, without filling your fingerlocks. Now execute the crux of getting into the slot (5.8-5.10, height-dependent). This is very hard for short people, because they can not reach into it before they lose their footholds. Use the fingerlocks and armbars to get up into the crack. Rest and set gear, then struggle for the top of the crack this is easiest for me with my right side facing inward. Top out on a ledge with a fat juniper with a rap anchor. Belay at the tree or walk back to the obvious, clean, acute dihedral, which goes from vertical to low angle after 30 feet or so.

P3: climb the aforementioned dihedral for 60' or so (5.7?) to reach the top. The last few moves practically merge with the last moves of Allosaur, which came left from under the roofs to join your route.

There are multiple options for descent, as listed for Allosaur. Perhaps the best option to take if you've left packs up on the Amphitheater ledge is to scramble east, then South around the back side to arrive at the rap anchors above the amphitheater roof. Rap a single rope to the ground. A 50m cord should reach, but I've only tried 60-70m, so I am not 100% sure.

Protection

A standard rack: one set stoppers, one set cams with optional #4. Too much gear will make the crux on pitch #2 difficult to do.

Photos

303scott  
 
Found this hidden gem when perusing the book for something to do after Allosaur. If Grand Giraffe is 9+, then this is accurately graded at 9-. If you take the standard traverse in as if going to Allosaur, the start is just after you make a big step down past a juniper bush and just before the 15 feet of slab trending up and right. A #4 was nice on the third pitch and useless weight on the second. The easiest way down is to rap the same raps as Allosaur, which are up and left (NW) of the finish about 20 feet. Two raps, easy pulls.

On a historical note, Levin's guide says this is the first recorded route on the West Ridge and the only route on that ridge put up by Layton Kor. Nov 14, 2016
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
  5.9
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
  5.9
I'm 5'5", and I found entering the slot very committing. Prepare for a grunt and scrape. Agree w/ Fiona above on gear. Rope got stuck in the slot and made for a lot of rope drag for belaying at the top. Also difficult for partner to clean. Oct 17, 2015
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Definitely worth doing if you have done all the other routes in the area. The squeeze is actually pretty fun. At 5'11" I thought the 5.9- rating given by the guidebook was about right. Aug 11, 2014
Fiona Dunne
Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Fiona Dunne   Boulder, CO
  5.10-
When belaying your 2nd on the p2 chimney, note that they may need slack to get out gear if you clipped it with short draws deep in the chimney. It was hard to hear each other, and if you're belaying in autoblock mode, it's hard to feel a pull for slack and also hard to give slack safely. Being stuck there pulled tight into the crack for a long time was no fun. May 31, 2014
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.9-
I can definitely see how being tall helped on this route. Apr 25, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
I'm of average height, 5'8", and found the move into the slot to be very difficult. It may be 5.9 if done with the perfect sequence, but it felt harder to me. Jan 30, 2010