Ernest Extended Way
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 39.93063, -105.28689 |
| FA: | Clint Locks |
| Page Views: | 1,243 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Clint Locks on Oct 15, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a nice way to extend Ernest Hemmingway. Check out that description (and the pic below) for approach info.
At a broad, grassy section of the ramp (just up from the 'model Christmas tree', locate a broken, right-facing dihedral. Climb that up through a roof, angle up and left to meet up with Ernest Stemmingway just below the roof on that climb.
Above the roof, the pro is sparse, and the bolt that is at the crux inspires about as much confidence as fishing for marlin with dental floss or bullfighting with a blindfold on. Don't fall there.
At press time (10/04) there was a sling and rap ring on a tree on the east slab that will *just* get you back to the start of the climb with a 60m rope.
Protection
Once the route meets up with Ernest Stemmingway, there is one bolt (Eds. Steve Levin replaced the bolt May, 2006) above the roof.



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