Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Clint Locks
Page Views: 502 total · 3/month
Shared By: Clint Locks on Oct 15, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a nice way to extend Ernest Hemmingway. Check out that description (and the pic below) for approach info.

At a broad, grassy section of the ramp (just up from the 'model Christmas tree', locate a broken, right-facing dihedral. Climb that up through a roof, angle up and left to meet up with Ernest Stemmingway just below the roof on that climb.

Above the roof, the pro is sparse, and the bolt that is at the crux inspires about as much confidence as fishing for marlin with dental floss or bullfighting with a blindfold on. Don't fall there.

At press time (10/04) there was a sling and rap ring on a tree on the east slab that will *just* get you back to the start of the climb with a 60m rope.

Protection

Once the route meets up with Ernest Stemmingway, there is one bolt (Eds. Steve Levin replaced the bolt May, 2006) above the roof.

Photos

Byron Murray
  5.9 R
Byron Murray  
  5.9 R
Steve Levin replaced the bolt May, 2006. Apr 12, 2010