Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Steven Lucarelli and Joseph Crotty, September 2007
Page Views: 893 total · 7/month
Shared By: Joseph Crotty on Oct 24, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

P1 5.9, 120': From a solid tree on a comfortable ledge, scramble up and right onto a gentle slab and pull over a rotten bulge. Move slightly left and join a finger crack to a ledge then up and right around an awkward 5.9 corner to the left end of a large slab system. Climb the arête to your immediate left onto a face and up into an open alcove then up through the rotten bulge past a small pine tree and onto a large slab at the top of the ridge. Establish a belay on the far left side of the slab near the base of the tower with the shallow, left-facing dihedral.

P2 5.12a ~60': Psyche up for the shallow, left-facing corner on the tower. First 35' packs a wallop with a bouldery .12a funky corner/face sequence into a dead vertical power-endurance finger crack with poor feet.

First pitch previously climbed by Steve Levin (AKA 'Dog Patch') but included here with permission. The second pitch was done ground up and involved some cleaning.

Thanks to Rob Kepley for lending a helping hand in this endeavor.

Location

Hike up the West Ridge passing the Amphitheater area and locate two enormous boulders near the cliff base that force the trail to detour Westward. This is downhill from the Verschneidung area. Route is in between the climbs Crow’s Landing and High Anxiety. To descend scramble down the ridge about 100’ and down climb a series of easy features aiming for a tree with rappel slings on the route ‘Up the Downclimb’. Rappel and make a short scramble back to the West Ridge trail.

Protection

SR with extra finger-sized cams and one Camalot #3 to supplement the last belay at the top of the tower.

Photos

Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12a PG13
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12a PG13
I think the 12a pitch might be worthy of 3 stars, but the 1st pitch is really loose and scary once you get to the small pine tree. Oct 25, 2007
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Climbing can be scary? Oct 25, 2007
slevin  
Dogpatch (5.8 R, FA Mike Munger & Steve Levin 2004) is (was) just a short by-pass, connecting the first pitch of Crow's Landing to Auntie Perspirant, but avoiding the 5.10 R Auntie Perspirant crux. It is the arete in the P1 description. Never reported and very obscure, it's only redeeming feature was avoidance of harder shit-climbing. I would also rate the first pitch as described 5.10-.

Good job on the corner, been looking at that a long time! Oct 25, 2007