Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: M. Brooks, L. Smith, 1982.
Page Views: 97 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 20, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route would probably deserve one star if it were clean, but it will never get the requisite traffic to clean up or stay clean. As well, the position is such that one can not jettison the loose rock from it, for fear of who else may be near on the trail, but out of sight.
Start up under the left end of the big roof, traversing out and left under it, placing gear where ever available and using long slings. Watch out for bad rock! It can be avoided, but attention to doing so is necessary. Continue until you reach a V-shaped slot to the right and pull up into it and place a few stoppers in the back of it (long slings) and head up to the top of the slot on hand jams (2" cam) until you can pull up and around the top, where a good spike of rock is passed to get out and around to the right (crux). Place a large stopper or small hex at the lip of the slot to keep the rope from feeding back into the crack from above. Finish to the top of the rock, where a cordalette and a few pieces of gear can protect the belay, or walk right to the fixed sling raps above the roof routes 'Blues Power' and 'Office Girls...'

Location

This route is in the Amphitheatre on the lower section of the West Ridge. To the right of Allosaur, there is a huge roof with the routes 'Blues Power', 'Wing Shot', and 'Office Girls Walk the Plank'. To the left of these, at the left margin of the big roof, is 'Something Blue.'
Something Blue shares the start with 'Blind Mouse' and 'Farmer's Wife.'

Protection

A standard rack to 3" with some longer slings. There will be some small runouts and some less than optimal gear.

Photos

Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
 
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
 
On a 4 star scale, I'd give it a single star. I think I remember us saying something about it being a "bomb minus". Again, beware of dropping loose rock down onto the trail (which you can't see). Feb 20, 2007
Clint Locks
Boulder
Clint Locks   Boulder
The hand traverse out to the spike at the crux is home to a condominium of pigeons...or at least it was in June. The amount of pigeon crap in the crack is evidence that they indeed have a long-term lease. #1 and #2 cams protect this traverse nicely. Watch the loose plate layer in the crack when placing them, though. Jun 29, 2007