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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 548 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Initial Hangover is a more direct and much more challenging start for the similarly named "Initial Route." There is essentially no warm up, so the route gets and stays in your face for the first 25'. After that, you merge with The Initial Route. Taking the Initial Hangover to the Initial Route will give you two overhanging slots to fight through. If that is not enough showing off, step left after the second belay and finish on the roofs of Allosaur, for a total of 4 overhangs.

This route begins just left of The Initial Route, but is best started in a different way. Instead of going up under the amphitheater onto the main ledge, continue to walk up the West Ridge Trail keeping an eye on the left-hand edge of the Allosaur wall. Just before you find yourself just around the corner to the West, you will be able to look up and see a big, rough overhang of dark, gritty stone, about 40 feet above you. The Initial Hangover is the gash that splits the roof. The rock here is more solid than it looks, save for a few chips of rock which will be at your feet getting started. Rack up near the trail and scramble up and right on the low angle rock to just below the gash. The scramble is 3rd class with a few 5.3(?) moves.

P1: 5.10, 50' Set a belay by slinging the huge horn just south of the start with a cordalette. Set some protection overhead and cruise (bruise?) up through the overhang to jugs up above. Merge with a corner system as on The Initial Route. Finish this pitch just below another big roof with a flaring squeeze-slot through it. Belay below this or continue climbing up it.

P2-P3: Finish as for The Initial Route. (P2 through the slot above, 5.9. P3 through a nice acute dihedral, 5.8, to the top.)

There are multiple options for descent, as listed for Allosaur. Perhaps the best option to take if you've left packs up on the Amphitheater ledge is to scramble east, then South around the back side to arrive at the Rap anchors above the amphitheater roof. Rap a single rope to the ground. A 50m cord should reach, but I've only tried 60-70m, so I am not 100% sure.

Protection

A standard Rack with one set of stoppers & one set cams with optional #4. The crux can be well protected, but once above it, the moves are still hard, the ledge is still close, and placing gear is awkward. Be careful.
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
5.10 crux right off the deck, followed by easier climbing above. P2 is a sandbag at 5.8+. May 1, 2007