Avg: 0.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||786 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 8, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
This route begins just left of The Initial Route, but is best started in a different way. Instead of going up under the amphitheater onto the main ledge, continue to walk up the West Ridge Trail keeping an eye on the left-hand edge of the Allosaur wall. Just before you find yourself just around the corner to the West, you will be able to look up and see a big, rough overhang of dark, gritty stone, about 40 feet above you. The Initial Hangover is the gash that splits the roof. The rock here is more solid than it looks, save for a few chips of rock which will be at your feet getting started. Rack up near the trail and scramble up and right on the low angle rock to just below the gash. The scramble is 3rd class with a few 5.3(?) moves.
P1: 5.10, 50' Set a belay by slinging the huge horn just south of the start with a cordalette. Set some protection overhead and cruise (bruise?) up through the overhang to jugs up above. Merge with a corner system as on The Initial Route. Finish this pitch just below another big roof with a flaring squeeze-slot through it. Belay below this or continue climbing up it.
P2-P3: Finish as for The Initial Route. (P2 through the slot above, 5.9. P3 through a nice acute dihedral, 5.8, to the top.)
There are multiple options for descent, as listed for Allosaur. Perhaps the best option to take if you've left packs up on the Amphitheater ledge is to scramble east, then South around the back side to arrive at the Rap anchors above the amphitheater roof. Rap a single rope to the ground. A 50m cord should reach, but I've only tried 60-70m, so I am not 100% sure.