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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
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A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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High Anxiety T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Importance of Being Earnest, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Verschneidung Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wild Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,246 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 8, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The Initial Hangover is a more direct and much more challenging start for the similarly named "Initial Route." There is essentially no warm up, so the route gets and stays in your face for the first 25'. After that, you merge with The Initial Route. Taking the Initial Hangover to the Initial Route will give you two overhanging slots to fight through. If that is not enough showing off, step left after the second belay and finish on the roofs of Allosaur, for a total of 4 overhangs.
This route begins just left of The Initial Route, but is best started in a different way. Instead of going up under the amphitheater onto the main ledge, continue to walk up the West Ridge Trail keeping an eye on the left-hand edge of the Allosaur wall. Just before you find yourself just around the corner to the West, you will be able to look up and see a big, rough overhang of dark, gritty stone, about 40 feet above you. The Initial Hangover is the gash that splits the roof. The rock here is more solid than it looks, save for a few chips of rock which will be at your feet getting started. Rack up near the trail and scramble up and right on the low angle rock to just below the gash. The scramble is 3rd class with a few 5.3(?) moves.
P1: 5.10, 50' Set a belay by slinging the huge horn just south of the start with a cordalette. Set some protection overhead and cruise (bruise?) up through the overhang to jugs up above. Merge with a corner system as on The Initial Route. Finish this pitch just below another big roof with a flaring squeeze-slot through it. Belay below this or continue climbing up it.
P2-P3: Finish as for The Initial Route. (P2 through the slot above, 5.9. P3 through a nice acute dihedral, 5.8, to the top.)
There are multiple options for descent, as listed for Allosaur. Perhaps the best option to take if you've left packs up on the Amphitheater ledge is to scramble east, then South around the back side to arrive at the Rap anchors above the amphitheater roof. Rap a single rope to the ground. A 50m cord should reach, but I've only tried 60-70m, so I am not 100% sure.
This route begins just left of The Initial Route, but is best started in a different way. Instead of going up under the amphitheater onto the main ledge, continue to walk up the West Ridge Trail keeping an eye on the left-hand edge of the Allosaur wall. Just before you find yourself just around the corner to the West, you will be able to look up and see a big, rough overhang of dark, gritty stone, about 40 feet above you. The Initial Hangover is the gash that splits the roof. The rock here is more solid than it looks, save for a few chips of rock which will be at your feet getting started. Rack up near the trail and scramble up and right on the low angle rock to just below the gash. The scramble is 3rd class with a few 5.3(?) moves.
P1: 5.10, 50' Set a belay by slinging the huge horn just south of the start with a cordalette. Set some protection overhead and cruise (bruise?) up through the overhang to jugs up above. Merge with a corner system as on The Initial Route. Finish this pitch just below another big roof with a flaring squeeze-slot through it. Belay below this or continue climbing up it.
P2-P3: Finish as for The Initial Route. (P2 through the slot above, 5.9. P3 through a nice acute dihedral, 5.8, to the top.)
There are multiple options for descent, as listed for Allosaur. Perhaps the best option to take if you've left packs up on the Amphitheater ledge is to scramble east, then South around the back side to arrive at the Rap anchors above the amphitheater roof. Rap a single rope to the ground. A 50m cord should reach, but I've only tried 60-70m, so I am not 100% sure.
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