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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
High Anxiety T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Verschneidung Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This section is the lowest section of The West Ridge. It is extends from the waterline/base of the ridge to arbitrarily Verschneidung. Certainly, this is the least famous of the sections of The West Ridge. Consequently, lines are generally shorter here. Access is quicker as well. Descents off the backside/E face, if you top out, are quicker, too.

This section of the ridge appears to contain the earliest route done on the ridge, Initial Route, 5.8, by none other than the then-climbing-omnivore Layton Kor with Herb Swedlund, in 1963.

While there may be no top-one hundred in Eldorado Canyon SP here, still there are some pleasant lines here. You may note that most of the routes listed here (to the left) for this section are in the 0-1 star range. Still, you may enjoy: the mini-classic Verschneidung, 5.7; the spicy Allosaur, 5.9 s; the short but energizing Morning Thunder, 5.9+; the strenuous Wing Shot, 5.11b; the invigorating Wild Turkey, 5.11c/d s; the once test-piece Office Girls Walk the Plank, 5.12d; among others.

This is a place to savor the less-frequented side of Eldorado.

Getting There

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach this section of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Or, you can approach by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.

Enjoy!

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 300
Verschneidung Dihedral
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 129
Allosaur
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 83
Morning Thunder
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Wingshot
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 12
Wishbone
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Mineral Maze
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Wild Turkey
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 3
Runsholl Scrunch
Trad 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Blues Power
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Kickin' Chicken
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Verschneidung Dihedral
 300
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Allosaur
 129
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Morning Thunder
 83
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Wingshot
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Wishbone
 12
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad, Sport
Mineral Maze
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wild Turkey
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Runsholl Scrunch
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Blues Power
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Kickin' Chicken
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base »

Sun & Shade

Sunny Roughly 11am to 8pm during high season
6am
8pm

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