Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This section is the lowest section of The West Ridge. It is extends from the waterline/base of the ridge to arbitrarily Verschneidung. Certainly, this is the least famous of the sections of The West Ridge. Consequently, lines are generally shorter here. Access is quicker as well. Descents off the backside/E face, if you top out, are quicker, too.

This section of the ridge appears to contain the earliest route done on the ridge, Initial Route, 5.8, by none other than the then-climbing-omnivore Layton Kor with Herb Swedlund, in 1963.

While there may be no top-one hundred in Eldorado Canyon SP here, still there are some pleasant lines here. You may note that most of the routes listed here (to the left) for this section are in the 0-1 star range. Still, you may enjoy: the mini-classic Verschneidung, 5.7; the spicy Allosaur, 5.9 s; the short but energizing Morning Thunder, 5.9+; the strenuous Wing Shot, 5.11b; the invigorating Wild Turkey, 5.11c/d s; the once test-piece Office Girls Walk the Plank, 5.12d; among others.

This is a place to savor the less-frequented side of Eldorado.

Getting There

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach this section of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Or, you can approach by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.

Enjoy!

47 Total Climbs

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Location: West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 310
Verschneidung Dihedral
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 134
Allosaur
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 88
Morning Thunder
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Wingshot
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 13
Wishbone
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Mineral Maze
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Wild Turkey
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 3
Runsholl Scrunch
Trad 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Blues Power
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Kickin' Chicken
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Verschneidung Dihedral
 310
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Allosaur
 134
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Morning Thunder
 88
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Wingshot
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Wishbone
 13
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad, Sport
Mineral Maze
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wild Turkey
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Runsholl Scrunch
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Blues Power
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Kickin' Chicken
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base »

Sun & Shade

Sunny Roughly 11am to 8pm during high season
6am
8pm

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