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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Brooks, Lynn Smith 1982
Page Views: 683 total, 4/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 11, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary defines Quo Vadis as, "Whither are you going?" That's appropriate, since I walked back and forth for 15 minutes before deciding where the route goes. Rossiter's description is pretty vague. Although this is an obscure route, it's worthwhile once you find it. Good climbing on a nice line, mostly moderate with a couple of crux moves, on pretty good rock.

Start:100' or so above the Allosaur amphitheater the trail switchbacks against the cliff about 25' below a huge boulder against the base of the cliff. Quo Vadis starts at the low angle right facing corner where the trail meets the cliff. See photo below. Odarodle climbs between Quo Vadis and the huge boulder.

Since I was self-belaying, and rope drag was therefore not a problem, I linked the two pitches. With a belayer that could be difficult because of multiple transitions from low angle to steep and back and a short traverse right up high.

P1: Climb the low angle slab past two small trees--it's nicer to climb right of the trees--to a vertical headwall. Get gear at the base of the wall then climb at about 12' of about 5.5 with no gear to a small tree (sketchy nut a little below, but not necessary. Step right and up onto a slab. Follow an easy groove past a tiny tree to another headwall and a wide crack. Place your big piece high in the crack or a smaller piece lower. One of the crux moves follows. Pull over the headwall onto a slab below an overhang. I used a hidden hold out right at the lip of the slab. Pull over the overhang using amazing holds onto another slab. Place one or more good directionals and traverse right to a large tree.

P2: Traverse back left on the slab to a wide crack. Place a big cam up high and make another crux move up and right to below yet another slab. I did this as a layback. Up the easy slab and then traverse right at the red band to a left facing corner through the red band. Up easily to a large tree. You could rap from here in two single rope rappels (maybe one?), but you'll need to bring slings and rings. Continue to the top. If you're going to descend via the Allosaur raps, you can exit right a short distance from the top and fantastic views of the west side of Redgarden.

Descent:Scramble easily climber's right to the Allosaur rappels or left (more difficult) to the Verschneidung raps.

Protection

Double cams from micro to #2 Camalot, 1 #3 and 1 #3.5 Camalot (or #4 Friend). 1 set nuts. Lots of slings, mostly long.

Photos

The first pitch is nice climbing. The second pitch other than the opening crux move which was more difficult because of slippery lichen was not worth doing. Lots of loose rock in the V-slot/dihedral. Next time I'll skip going all the way to the top but rather climb up to the red band in one pitch, then traverse way right (80 ft) to a big rap tree . If you go to the top and downclimb to the rap tree, I suggest to stay roped up. There is one rather exposed move and lots of loose rock. From the tree, rap 80 ft south-west to another (small) tree, from there a 60m rope gets you down.
Standard rack is more than sufficient, no doubles required, # 3.5 BD for wide crack on P2 as per above description.
Aug 7, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
I see that there's also a "Quo Vadis" on Redgarden on the south face of the Lower Ramp. That's strange because both Quo Vadis's were done by Mike Brooks, the Redgarden one in 81 and the West Ridge one in 82. Why would he give two Eldo routes the same name? Apparently the Redgarden Quo Vadis is hard to find. See the discussion under Vertical Smile. Feb 6, 2005