Mountain Project Logo

Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Harrison & M. Brooks, 1981
Page Views: 451 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 16, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

[This] sunny route lies on the lower portion of the West [Ridge] below the High Anxiety area, and just above the [Amphitheatre]. The start is just right of "Crow's Landing." Hike up past the [Amphitheatre], past "Super Scooper" & "Up the Downclimb." After another 50 yards or so you will see a [huge] boulder leaning against the base of the wall. Set the gear on a flat spot [against] the wall just below (west of) this boulder and gear up.

The route is by all rights two pitches, and perhaps three if you want to place a lot of gear and avoid rope drag. We did it as a single pitch with no big problem, however. We used a 70M rope, but I believe a 60M may have worked.

Climb the wall up a clean slab from the ground or junky corner, some 5-10 feet to the right of this boulder for 30 feet and then continue up and right on easy moves for about 60 more feet to a belay (optional) on a long ledge system. Continue up and right to a ledge below a very long overhang with bad rock. Scramble right on this ledge to a bulge in the wall where the ledge pinches into the overhang at a rounded bulge with good holds. Climb up through the bulge watching out for bad rock. Continue on the slab above some distance left of the junky right-facing corner, perhaps 6 to ten feet left of it, where a small tree grow out of the face.

You will reach the broken red overhang (optional belay) and then climb up through this on one of the many possible options from there. The [Rossiter guidebook] suggests a "groove" what we did not find was a "groove". Instead we climbed a left-leaning, overhanging crank-and-jug line through the top overhang, being mindful not to grab loose rock. The belay on top was from a solid and reasonably sized pine tree. (6" [diameter] trunk in stone.) Refer to [Rossiter's guidebook] if you have it. This tree is shown on [Rosister's] p228 topo as being just to the the right of the tree atop of "Auntie [Perspirant]."

To Descend: There are several ways. One option is to scramble South on the ridge about 50 feet to a big boulder, then downclimb from the boulder to a very large pine tree, the first in a set of two raps (one single rope rap with a 70M rope or two raps with a single shorter rope). This involves 5.6 solo downclimbing and a fall would be deadly. You can down-lead/down follow a pitch if this sounds bad. Option #2, a rap could be built on the belay tree. Option #3, rap from anchors at the top of the Ampatheatre area. Option #4, you can go up the ridge to the High Anxiety/ Vershneidung area and find one of several other descent anchor systems.

Protection

One set of stoppers, One set of cams. Small tricams to fill in a few spots here and there.

Photos

0 Comments