Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chris Reveley & John Ruger, 1974
Page Views: 958 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Start as for Wingshot. The 11b grade given here is for that first pitch- the rest is considerably easier (5.10?).

Cross the stream near the Milton Boulder to reach the big amphitheater on the West Ridge, just up and across the stream. The broken rock hanging in the amphitheater makes it look daunting. [Nonetheless], there are a few good lines through it; Wingshot is one of them, with the best option on Wingshot being the Shot and Chaser finish. Head up the trail until a foot-worn path leads up and right, as for the approach of Allosaur. You will walk and scramble to the slab below the amphitheater. If you arrive at the base of Allosaur, traverse down and right to reach the slab below Wingshot. Wingshot and Shot and Chaser are at the very right hand edge of the attached photo, although the routes are obscured by shadow.

At the lower right end of the amphitheater there is a broken overhang that goes to a few underclngs, then to a thin hands and finger crack on the left side of an inset, past fixed slings on a chockstone (now yellow and red). From this point Shot and Chaser deviates from Wingshot.

After clipping the slings on the chockstone with a runner, move up and left to place a 2" cam or brown tricam in a 4" by 1.75" feature/crack/pocket on the left (solid). Now move out and right through the second bulge at the right hand side of the inset. The climbing is steep and it is a struggle to keep your weight on your feet. Hit and undercling or a sharp fingerlock to get over the bulge and around a corner. From there go up to a slightly less than vertical wall and hand traverse to the right 6 feet to the left-facing dihedral former by a wall and the huge flake at the right hand side of the [amphitheater] roof. Climb this dihedral for 10 feet and then finish up and left for gear at the summit. (stoppers + cord-e-lette on a huge horn)

To descend, lower from the anchors below just over the lip of the roof, ~80 feet.

Protection

Rack for Wingshot: One large cam (#4 Camalot) for the broken area at the base, cams 1" -2" for the long crux sequence (1" crux at the crux move), and a few nuts or small tricams. A 2" cam or brown tricam for just above the inset "slot."Rack for shot and Chaser finish: A .5" TCU + cams 2-3" plus a few stoppers or tricams. You need several 2" slings to avoid drag.

Photos

slevin  
This sounds like the original line taken by Reveley and John Ruger in 1974.

Eldorado- A Climber's Route Guide (Ament) 1975: "A severely overhanging, strenuous pitch leads up a crack and right up the southern extension of a prominent, inset "Y", to the top."

Eldorado- A Rock Climber's Guide (Ament) 1980: "...a prominent "Y" formed by a crack leading through a slot to two dihedrals...taking the more difficult right (southern) extension of the Y."

Rocky Heights (Erickson) 1980: "...a severely overhanging crack which splits into a "Y". Turn it right or left." Nov 28, 2006