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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
High Anxiety T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Verschneidung Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Wayne Crill, 2005
Page Views: 5,204 total · 34/month
Shared By: Wayne Crill on Nov 5, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This spectacular route has steep, fun climbing on mostly good rock with great position overlooking the creek and the Milton Boulder. I use a severity/spiciness rating based upon hot chilies with three grades: i) Jalapeno is serious enough to require attention and can easily burn you if not careful; ii) Habanero is the famously hot pepper that can easily spoil one's day if not treated with proper respect; and iii) The Peruvian Rocoto pepper is the spiciest and most flavorful of the hot peppers, failure to overcome the associated risks will be regretful. I think the Chicken is a Jalepeno spicy route, with the added intro bolts. Were it not for some crumblies in the roofs, I, and others who have been on it would consider this route four star worthy.

Kickin' Chicken climbs the obvious crack system moving up and left through the roofs right of Wingshot and left of Wild Turkey in the amphitheater/alcove area at the bottom of the West Ridge. The route climbs the initial 40' of Wild Turkey then moves left through the large roofs to access the steep crack continuing for 40' more up and left to the ridgeline. From the alcove at the base of Blues Power and Wingshot, follow the ledge/break below the blocky magenta band ~ 40' right to a small exposed ledge, the turkey perch, overlooking the creek where Wild Turkey and Wishbone start. It is a good idea to set a belay here.

Climb the first 40' of Wild Turkey (5.11-) past four bolts added after the FA, to the underclings below Wild Turkey's crux bulge. Hang a long sling here and instead of climbing straight up over this bulge (as for WT), move left around the bulge and then up through an exciting boulder problem to access the left-angling crack system. Continue up and left with small cams along the steep crack to tricky moves escaping onto the headwall, then up 20 more feet of nice 5.8 in L.-facing dihedral to the ridgeline topout. A difficult to place nut (fixed) protects the boulder problem crux as you leave the bolts of Wild Turkey en route to the well protected crack proper.

It is very difficult to top rope this route because of the left angling nature of the line. However, if one wishes, a natural toprope anchor can easily be placed 20' below the ridgline in the crack just above the roofs at the bottom of the headwall. However a RP ascent should definately continue to the ridgeline as the last couple moves around the corner out of the roof and onto the headwall can be quite tricky when pumped! ENJOY!

Protection

Gear: nuts, micro cams, gear to 2", one 3' extendable sling, 4 quickdraws.
Josh Janes    
 
How dangerous is this route if the fixed wire blows? Feb 2, 2010
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
 
If you are committed during the crux and the nut blows. Have your favorite belayer real in slack as you pick up your feet to miss the slab. What a whipper, but you should be OK, Good Lord willing. Feb 2, 2010
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
I was working this thing a couple years ago in the fall. I came back in the spring to try it again and it appeared that the nut had shifted down further to the bottom opening of the slot. I feel it will most likely blow sometime if fallen on. I took a couple big rides on it too. Listen to what Hank says...yikes! Otherwise, it's a totally bitchn' route! Josh, I'll go up there with ya. Feb 2, 2010
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
 
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
 
Hmm, well there are many objective hazards and variables involved in estimating "how dangerous is it if the fixed nut blows". Most important (obviously!), is how far above it are you. I can tell you this, when I was originally working the route I was wicked pumped after the crux at the "stance" before moving left to the crack proper and I fell there trying to fiddle in gear. No worries as I fell onto the nut and of course it held. It was a nice fall well above any ledges, no worries.

Next run I decided to hell with that gear at that stance, I'll just keep cranking L up to the crack proper where the big jugs and the bomber gear is. As I was placing a cam in that crack, my foot slipped and I took a 30+ footer bringing me down to the first piece of original gear (a pink tricam ~ at bolt #2 height now). Big, penduluming fall still ~ 10' above the belay ledge but getting close.

SO, I feel that if you were just past the crux, at the *finger tip jug stance* where there is a micro cam at your L shoulder, and a nut just a little lower left that (both within reach, I believe Hank used the nut, not the cam, I have used the cam in all ascents) and you were to fall from here and the nut popped, I think you would take a fall similar to the big one I describe above. I believe with an attentive belayer it shouldn't be a problem.

Therefore, I reccommend not moving past this stance until you have gear because if you fell above and L, close to the crack proper and the nut blew you would be looking at a potential 40+ foot ledge fall.

Rob, I moved that nut about 2 yrs ago specifically because the placement it was in was a little friable and I moved it about 1-2 inches down the angling crack to a better spot and set it hard, this was not the bottom of the crack though, so maybe it has moved or was moved? When working this route it would be easy to back that nut up with another or a cam. The nut would be almost impossible to place on lead, but a small cam might slip in the crack with a long blind reach?

IF you fall in the crux and the nut blows, you'll be just fine. You are not very high above the nut or the bolt below (really to the R) of that piece. I believe the only concern is if you fall after the crux, have not placed any additional gear, and the nut blows.... Feb 3, 2010
Josh Janes    
 
Well the fixed wire held a few spectacular whippers today. And although I wouldn't want to be on the sharp end when it blew, it can be backed up with a decent yellow Alien.

This route is pump-o-matically choss-a-licious! Feb 5, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Interesting name. What's the story behind it? Feb 10, 2013
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
 
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
 
Kickin' Chicken is a bit of a slang term for the liquor Wild Turkey, and this route is a harder variation of Wild Turkey, so that is the story behind the name. May 13, 2013
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Nice! I always thought it was redneck slang for cooking chicken. Dec 20, 2016
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
It does warrant an R rating based on my recent experiences.

If you fall at the crux on any of about five moves right after clipping the fixed nut, there are ample jagged features jutting out from the wall to greet your feet. I sprained my left ankle in just such a fall and a friend also sprained his ankle in the same spot.

Past the technical crux there is a pumpy redpoint crux placing and clipping natural gear while staring down a 30'+ pendulum fall. Falling here I bruised the ball of my right foot coming into the wall. Dec 31, 2016

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