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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
High Anxiety T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Verschneidung Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Harrison, Brooks, Reynolds, 1986
Page Views: 105 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 15, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

An interesting climb that would get more stars if it followed a straight line. But it doesn't, it wanders. Still, it is a fairly intuitive line and can be nicely done as a single pitch. Start just right of the base of "Morning Thunder" and finish up on the East Slabs of the West Ridge and belay there.
To retreat, go up and West on the slabs and down to the raps as for the Amphitheatre routes.

Location

This route starts in the shallow corner, two corners right of "Morning Thunder." Start up the right-facing corner and flake and top out onto a slab after 10 meters, unprotected. Put in gear as you turn onto the slab and go to the right edge of the slab to a good crack, then either belay or keep going (keep going). You can place a high piece on the traverse to the corner with a long sling and then walk your gear in the corner up for a ways, then sling it and you'll still have minimal drag. When you hit a rotten band, look back to get some gear then go up and left a few moves and then up a funky undercling to another good crack and some finger locks that you can't see until you are there. Don't keep going left.... Place gear again and pull the crux you've already started out on (5.9 again) and get up into a left-facing corner to another ledge. Protect again as you turn onto the ledge, go right to a good handcrack, then up to the top, onto the East Slabs of the West Ridge.

Protection

A standard rack from small to 3" first and second knuckle cams were what I needed most, but had left them at the belay. The first pitch is unprotected and is 5.9. Don't fall. The second pitch is runout and has some loose rock in a spot or two that can be easily avoided.
The belay up top is a little hard to find, but I got a large cam and 3 reasonable stoppers after some searching and climbing further up the top-out slab.
To run this into a single pitch, take plenty of runners and make some elective runouts.

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