Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Levin, Sheryl Lehman, 2006
Page Views: 207 total · 2/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Dec 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route probably doesn't get climbed a lot, but it should as the first pitch in particular was quite interesting.

The first pitch follows the flakes up the middle of the slab. Contrary to appearances there is good gear in the flakes. Continue up the slab to a small, gnarled tree and then go straight up corners and bulges to a large ledge with a tree on the left. (5.8 pg-13, 110 feet).

The second pitch goes straight up from the ledge and follows a thin crack to a bulge in a right-facing corner. Get over the bulge (crux of the pitch) and continue straight up to the rotten band. Traverse very gingerly to the right on loose blocks and rotten rock and then downclimb easily to a large tree with rappel slings. (5.8, 50 feet).

Location

This route is fairly low on the West Ridge. As you're hiking up the trail, you'll encounter a sign along the trail that reminds people to keep their dogs on leash. A few feet past that is a really big tree right next to the trail. As you take a few steps past the tree, looking up the trail to the rock, you'll see a fairly clean low-angle slab with flakes in the middle. This is the start of the route.

Rappel from the large tree with slings to a bolted rappel anchor and then to the ground. A single 60m rope is fine for the rappels.

Protection

Standard rack. I found small cams useful for both pitches (blue Alien and smaller).

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8 PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8 PG13
Not a great route, but it is ok climbing. There are some fun moves on both pitches. Too much lichen. Dec 26, 2010
And a huge band of loose rocks at the top. I agree with Jay, it's an ok climb. Dec 27, 2010
Nick Wilder
Boulder, CO
 
Nick Wilder   Boulder, CO  
 
Good as one long pitch. Tons of small pro. Would be a great route if all the lichen were removed. Mar 10, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
If you try to force P1 too directly, being in a bulge just below the most obvious section of dihedral, the climbing in certainly R-rated and probably 5.10 or so. The route dodges about a bit.

I can't image in 5.8 leader being psyched on this route, BTW, but it is good for more advanced climbers. Nov 1, 2015
Dave Holliday  
5.8
I climbed this again for the first time since submitting the route here. There's still about the same amount of lichen, but I never worried about slipping off the key holds. My partner didn't care for it, but I think it's a pretty interesting and fun route (at least the first pitch). I wouldn't suggest it to a leader who maxes out at 5.8, but if you're solid on runout Eldo 5.8, you might also find it interesting. At least you won't have to wait in line to climb it. Mar 22, 2018