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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Levin, Sheryl Lehman, 2006
Page Views: 123 total, 1/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Dec 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route probably doesn't get climbed a lot, but it should as the first pitch in particular was quite interesting.

The first pitch follows the flakes up the middle of the slab. Contrary to appearances there is good gear in the flakes. Continue up the slab to a small, gnarled tree and then go straight up corners and bulges to a large ledge with a tree on the left. (5.8 pg-13, 110 feet).

The second pitch goes straight up from the ledge and follows a thin crack to a bulge in a right-facing corner. Get over the bulge (crux of the pitch) and continue straight up to the rotten band. Traverse very gingerly to the right on loose blocks and rotten rock and then downclimb easily to a large tree with rappel slings. (5.8, 50 feet).

Location

This route is fairly low on the West Ridge. As you're hiking up the trail, you'll encounter a sign along the trail that reminds people to keep their dogs on leash. A few feet past that is a really big tree right next to the trail. As you take a few steps past the tree, looking up the trail to the rock, you'll see a fairly clean low-angle slab with flakes in the middle. This is the start of the route.

Rappel from the large tree with slings to a bolted rappel anchor and then to the ground. A single 60m rope is fine for the rappels.

Protection

Standard rack. I found small cams useful for both pitches (blue Alien and smaller).

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
If you try to force P1 too directly, being in a bulge just below the most obvious section of dihedral, the climbing in certainly R-rated and probably 5.10 or so. The route dodges about a bit.

I can't image in 5.8 leader being psyched on this route, BTW, but it is good for more advanced climbers. Nov 1, 2015
Nick Wilder
The Bubble
 
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
 
Good as one long pitch. Tons of small pro. Would be a great route if all the lichen were removed. Mar 10, 2011
And a huge band of loose rocks at the top. I agree with Jay, it's an ok climb. Dec 27, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8 PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8 PG13
Not a great route, but it is ok climbing. There are some fun moves on both pitches. Too much lichen. Dec 26, 2010