Type: Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
FA: Ruckgaber, Reed, Benge, 1981
Page Views: 660 total · 3/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 2, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

From the trail that winds around the start of the West Ridge, you cross over a ramp heading up right. Run up the ramp to a left-facing dihedral with a pin in it. A belay can be set up here. P1 runs this 30 ft dihedral on wired stoppers. The tight crux comes in stemming past the fixed pin. Belay on the slab above and walk off left or continue with two pitches of 5.7/5.8 juggy face climbing. I did the upper pitches 20 years ago and found them enjoyable but out of character for the first, very interesting, problem. 11b is probably a bit generous for P1. Clean stone with a good sequence.

Protection

Bring a standard rack and a rope. This route is [a classic] three pitch line, but the real action is over after the first pitch.

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