Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Chris Parks, 2/3/01
Page Views: 148 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This climb was previously unreported and is suspected to have been a FA, but it appears to share most of its line with Blind Mouse and was named The Farmer's Wife. The name was given after doing the start of Blind Mouse and finding a "Butcher-knife" hold or two... where upon a certain nursery rhyme about '3 blind mice' came to mind.

To climb this route, start up under the alcove of Something Blue, Blues Power, etc., considerably right of Allosaur. Climb a ramp of mostly poor rock, placing gear overhead where available, between the main wall and the 'roof' formed overhead by the alcove. I believe this to be the beginning of Blind Mouse. Continue on this line until the roof ends, whereupon Blind Mouse escapes to the right on a slab/corner. From there, continue up left past this point to some shallow, left-facing crack and corner systems. Climb up the first of these into a hand and then fist-crack (4" protection optional), step left to the second of the two cracks and then up to the top of that. Continue up to a diagonal band, which is followed up and left over the roof making the "hand" over Allosaur, continuing until the feet would otherwise drop off under the roof above the "finger" over Allosaur, then go up and left, directly across the face to hit the summit ridge. Improvise a directional and then go out to a belay where possible. I retreated back some distance and belayed as for Allosaur.

Addendum: the top 1/2 of this line appears to have been followed by the line "Pork Chop" although that climb was approached via a different system than the corner for the first 30-40'. The best climbing on either route is quite precisely the same.

Protection

A light rack with stoppers and cams to 4". The initial overhanging corner is pretty bad rock, and the top is a little trick to protect. As well, the final face is in need of a good brushing before the route can reach its potential.

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