Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA Steve Levin, Pete Takeda, May 2006
Page Views: 895 total · 6/month
Shared By: slevin on May 16, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is an old Mike Brooks, Kyle Copeland aid route (5.9 A2) between Initial Route and Super Scooper.

P1: Climb the left side of a sharp fin to a slab (5.8).

P2: Crank out a roof crack, then hand traverse left to a hanging, right-facing corner, and follow this to a tree (5.12a).
Rap 90 feet to the ground.

This is a big roof with big holds, knee bars, and some good movement.

Location

The right side of the Super Scooper buttress, approxinmately 200 feet above the creek.

Protection

Include a #4 Camalot. There is a fixed wire, and several fixed pins (all good- we tested with a hammer).

Photos

Chris Beh
5.12- PG13
Chris Beh  
5.12- PG13
It is easy to top rope this climb off the tree at the top of Super Scooper with a 70m rope (you'll need 2 cordelettes or 4-8 slings to get the rope in position and back the tree up. I used a slung horn). Runsholl is fun, steep and pumpy. The pins can be clipped on the way down for convenient directionals. You scored freeing this, Steve. Very surprising it wasn't free climbed until 2006. Mar 23, 2009
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
CAUTION: A crucial hold broke that was right next to the fixed nut, the fixed nut fell out. What's left is flexing. It may stay, it may not. Dammit!!! Nov 7, 2009
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
 
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
 
Damn Murphy, you know these delicate routes can't stand the repeated abuse of being seiged like that?! Lotsa love, buddy. Dec 20, 2009
EDJ Johnson
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
EDJ Johnson   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
I fell twice on this route after breaking two different big holds. I'm not sure if it is harder now. I think a #4.5 Camalot is better than just a #4, and this route is PG-13 due to the ledge you will hit if you blow gear at all. Fun moves, 5.10d from the pins up. No fixed wire. Aug 30, 2012
Aaron Ramras
  5.12-
Aaron Ramras  
  5.12-
The upper fixed pin flexed when I clipped it, and we removed it by hand. There is sufficient gear to keep the pitch safe without it. This is a fun rock climb! Dec 3, 2016