Type: Trad, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: Larry Hamilton, Dakers Gowans, 1974
Page Views: 9,405 total · 35/month
Shared By: Chris Dawson on Jan 25, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Allosaur is located near the bottom of the West Ridge in an area called The Amphitheater. To reach the start of the climb, hike a short ways up the West Ridge trail just pass the bouldering traverse. From there, scramble (4th/lower 5th class) up and right across some slabs to reach an area above the trail. Allosaur starts at a juniper tree at the base of a south-facing wall.

P1: move up and gradually left toward a fixed pin at 25 feet or so. From there, continue up and left across the face. The pro is runout and small (offset Aliens/RPs). The topo in the Eldo book calls this section .7s, but it may deserve .8s. The first 30 feet are fairly steep and continous. It ends at the band of purple broken rock, 80 feet.

P2: go up and right into an obvious, left-leaning corner protecting with small to mid-size cams. The 5.8 crux comes at end of corner. This pitch ends at ramp above the corner and below the next corner. The belay takes medium cams, 40 feet.

P3: go up and right again into left-leaning corner/roof protecting with small cams. The 5.9 crux comes near the end of the corner and is well-protected. This pitch is only about 40 feet and ends at the top of the ridge.

Rap rings are located about 30' to the west of the top of the route. Rap about 50 feet to a ledge and another set of rings then 100 feet (60m rope highly recommended) to end up about 20 feet left of the start of the climb.

Allosaur is fantastic. Just beware of the runout first pitch, although the rock is mostly solid and of good quality.

Protection Suggest change

Cams up to a #2 Camalot. Offset Aliens and RPs are useful. Make sure to include small cams.