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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad
FA: Pat Ament and Christian Griffith, 1979.
Page Views: 3,621 total, 18/month
Shared By: Tyler Jones on Apr 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is perfect for the one last push of the day, or if you are really good it's an awesome warm-up. It's located next to the Amphitheater The Morning Thunder rock makes up the south side of the Amphitheater. It is very easily seen from the road. From the trail, head right across some scrambling and up through a narrow gap onto the large belay ledge. Start on the left side of the face following the crack for about twenty feet. Continue up and right following a diagonal crack with some tricky moves. Finish about 15 feet below and right of the top of the rock. This route is a strenuous climb, don't expect an easy one-pitch 5.9. It pushes the limit of being a 10. Great climb, short, and fun!

Protection

Small and medium stoppers are very ideal. Cams from the smallest Aliens to a #1 Camalot. I never used bigger than a #0.5 cam, but if you are creative you might use something bigger. A top rope is possible after someone has lead the route, but best just sticking to trad.
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.10c PG13
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.10c PG13
Oops on me for not noticing until 2016 that the books left us out on the first ascent of Morning Thunder! I impatiently belayed & followed Mason Frichette on this pitch in 1975. Only eighteen, I remember being frustrated, rather than respectfully impressed, by Mason's ability to hang on forever and find placements for primitive gear in a very unfriendly crack. In the end, he had to hang a bit before finishing.

We didn't really count our ascent because we were devoted to the new myth of perfection called clean climbing (hammer-less, hang-less, chalk-less, car-less, on-sight-only...). No second try, even for the follower!

Same summer, we also did unnamed and undocumented first ascents of The Bat, Fading Light, Srinagar, Kashmir, Lunar Avenue, Chick on the Side, and Fake Right, Go Left. Mason was in a race against severe arthritis and sent all the tens in Boulder that year (with my help!). Morning Thunder was our only failure!

Pat and Christian certainly gave us plenty of time to redo. Their route name is perhaps a nod to Mason. In 1975, Mason worked at Celestial Seasoning Co., the makers of Morning Thunder tea. Just the right flavor tea to describe obnoxious me yelling at Mason 'cause he had to hang that morning! Nov 28, 2016
D. Snyder
Golden, CO
  5.9+
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
  5.9+
This is a damn fine pitch! Add on the Jam Con finish for a 4-star pitch (might be 5.10a done this way). Nov 24, 2016
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.9+
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.9+
Short but high value. Really enjoyed this pitch! Jun 15, 2015
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.9+
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.9+
Great route, good fingers, now if it was only 120ft long. Sep 29, 2011
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
Placed only red Alien and smaller for Morning Thunder, then blue #3 and gray #4 Camalots (either one would've sufficed) for Jam Con. Sep 3, 2010
There is no longer any fixed gear on this route Oct 8, 2005
Short and steep with good pro and good feet, great body positions. Lots of good hand holds (fingers), just use TCUs and keep moving. I'll come back and do this one again. Jun 12, 2005
"Definitely easier than Positively 4th Street"? Don't think so. this is solid 5.9 with small gear at the beginning (where you really need it) while 4th Street is a piss up with tons of jugs and easy protection. Mar 8, 2005
Chris Weber
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Weber   Boulder, CO
 
I agree with earlier comment: definitely harder (I wrote easier before by accident) than Positively 4th St, and, really, about as long. Both are short. Strenuous off the ground with heady climbing above small gear--I ended up taking probably too much time fiddling with small pieces and tired out more than I should have. Awesome route. Too bad it's a little short. bring TCUs. and small/med nuts or offsets. Mar 7, 2005
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.9+
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.9+
Short and sweet. Excellent finger jams with good feet! Very enjoyable. Aug 27, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
A few answers/comments.

Jam Con goes up part the top [??] of Morning Thunder, back to the right hand side of the massive chockstone wedged between the top of the M.T. wall and the wall above and to the right. This is the same boulder casting a shadow in your first picture, Ivan. Stem and jam up it's right side. It's about 15 feet of independent climbing.

Secondly, [Thunderbolts] From Heck is a pretty stout route- and a few of the little flakes you will yard on are flexing and dubous at best. Be mindful that a fall from the wrong place will result in smashing your face into the rock. Placing the wires to get [up to] the [first] bolt is also a little [strenuous], so think in terms of doing solid 5.12 while a little pumped and also with a bad fall pending. I talked with Steve about the bolt placements at some length, during which discussion he mentioned that G.R. broke some teeth out on a failed lead attempt, and also conceeded that the 12a grade might be a sandbag, but also stated that was GR's rating, not his. I'll try to find the resources to scan in the slides I have of this and 1000's of other Eldo/BC/RMNP/[SPlatte]/etc climbs some day. Oct 27, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
Tony (or anyone),

Where does Jam Con go? We were looking for it. Does it climb over the chockstone (rather than hike around it) that's clearly visible in the photo? And then over the overhang above onto the 45 degree arete? Oct 26, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
There's a bizarre-looking 12a called Thunderbolts From Hell that starts the same as Morning Thunder. Rossiter says, "Move left and sashay up the strenuous arete, using holds on both sides, past 3 bolts..." But the "arete" is essentially the lip of a roof, close to horizontal. You can see the line left of Chuck in the first photo of Chuck Graves that I posted yesterday. The bolts are barely visible--the first one is above Chuck's head. Oct 26, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
Great climb that I didn't know existed until about a month ago when I did Allosaur and say Morning Thunder in the guide just to the right. It's extremely obvious from the road (see photo), yet I had never noticed it.

Link this to Allosaur by walking left from the top of Morning Thunder to the start of Allosaur.

The biggest piece we used was a #2 Friend right off the ledge as a directional. Lots of brass nuts to start, Aliens... We expected it to be a handcrack based on Rossiter's #3 Friend recommendation, but there's only one hand jam, in a short diagonal crack. You could place a bigger piece here, but then you'd lose the hand jam. Above, in the triangular inset, you can get a knee lock and a no hands rest.

Is this the easiest Christian Griffith climb? Oct 26, 2003
David Hous
Boulder, Colorado
David Hous   Boulder, Colorado
I love this route, if it was twice as long it would be more popular than the bastille crack! I think it's definitely 5.9+, if you're finding it harder than that look around for some face holds. If you stick with the crack only it gets to be 5.10. Well protected by wires and small cams. Apr 17, 2003
Climbed on 5.25.02. Great route. Short and strenous. The grade is actually just right on for an older 5.9+ route i.e. appropriately sandbagged! The gear is mostly small nuts with sub-optimal stances for placement but don't leave all of your big pieces at the belay as you can EASILY get a #3 Friend in just before the crux. Jun 19, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
O.K. I have some issues about the rating thing here on west ridge. First we say that Pos. 4th is 10a ? Hmm, well I guess not. Then we say that 'Morning Thunder', which is more sustained than 'Pos. 4th' albeit short. I give Pos. maybe 5.9 and Morning Thunder 5.10a and as far as the #1 cam goes, leave it on the ground where it can be used for the belayer out to the right for a ground anchor point. Cheers.. Nov 3, 2001
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Consider finishing the Route on the [variation called] Jam Con. This will give a jamming and roof finish that will make the climb longer and give it more variety and pump. In my opinion, the two linked together go at 5.10. Aug 6, 2001