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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 640 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Territorial Integrity will never see too many ascents. The rock is rough and broken, runout and somewhat non-descript otherwise. It is not a beckoning line. Still, some of the moves are nice and it will keep you thinking on your feet.

On the Allosaur Wall, you can use a cordalette to hang a toprope from the rap anchor on the juniper tree on the wall's left edge. To reach this tree climb the Initial Route or Initial Hangover. Territorial Integrity goes up the left side of the Allosaur wall to this tree, but as a TR, you can really pick any line in this vicinity. The difficulty will be between 5.8 and 5.10b, depending on where you are. By picking the least broken and cleanest line, it seemed to check in at 5.9. Some wandering for gear or to avoid cruxes could knock this down to 5.8.

With wandering taken into account, a creative and experienced leader will likely find this to be a reasonable lead (S, not VS). That said, it is still no place to test your limits.

To descend, rap from the tree on a 70M rope to the huge ledge below Allosaur or a 60M rope to a small ledge, and then down-climb 10 feet to the main ledge.

Protection

This climb is listed as a Toprope in the Rossiter book, but with some wandering and creativity it can be lead as an S or VS climb. The quality of the pro and the and length of the runout will depend upon your rack, skill set and exact line of ascent. If you do intend to lead the climb take long runners as protecting it will require some wandering. Rack up with 1 set RPs, 1 set stoppers, small tricams, a set of TCUs and long slings.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
I did lead it, and I got a few other pieces.
(Edit: this was origionally a response to an AC comment about how it has not been lead and is unprotected) May 4, 2007