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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base

A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Pat Ament & Mark Sheppard, 1980
Page Views: 688 total, 4/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

My partner wanted to climb this because of the name -- we both were hoping for something along the lines of Over the Hill. Boy were we wrong. Not only is this climb a pile of chossy rock with few fun moves, but the approach is tedious & tricky to find. Get there by going to the end of the Streamside Trail -- where the West Ridge rock runs right into the creek (as far south as you can get). If approaching from the other side, scramble over this southern buttress above the water. You'll see two ramp systems (and lots of things that look like ramps) -- take the most obvious one that is furthest east. This is marked by a model-looking Christmas tree.

Climb up ramp 50 feet or so until another twisted tree blocks your way up the ramp. Go around this tree and begin looking for a hard-to-see bolt on a shallow, left-facing dihedral about 20 feet over your head. Climb up here (or just go home -- the climbing is bad). The hard moves are 10 feet above the bolt and well protected. Pull over the top onto a ramp and scramble all the way up this ramp to set up a belay.

Rap off on the far west side of the West Ridge or perhaps go back down the ramp.

Protection

A few small & medium cams + one quickdraw for the newly replaced bolt.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
Not the best route, but it has some fun moves and it is reasonably safe now with the new bolt. We downclimbed the slab to the north east, but I recommend rapping to avoid some of the loose blocks in the gully below. Dec 2, 2010
slevin  
The bolt has been replaced. The original stud was a 1" split shaft quarter incher that came out with hardly any effort. May 26, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
It's been a number of years, but this route is in the zone of 'one must not fall at the crux!' There are so many better routes.... Only for the absolutely bored out of their skulls. Jun 4, 2005
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.9-
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.9-
For those faint of heart...or just reasonable, you can sling a small(er) tree just left and before the roof. Just extend the heck out of it. I used a dbl-length sling girth-hitched to a shoulder-lengthed one. Drag was not an issue.The crux was indeed at a 'bolt' of quite questionable quality.

If you do it, check out "Ernest Extended Way" while you're there.

I honestly didn't have too much fun on this one, and think it's not worth the effort of the approach. If you're still into it, though, check out the pics below to assist in the location. Oct 17, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
I didn't think it was that bad. The moves were nice, a lot of technique without a lot of physical difficulty. Yes, there is some broken rock and some lichen. The route is mostly solid- it just needs brushed off well once or twice. Some other thoughts... I don't know for sure if this route deserves and S or not. The crux is right by a bolt, and there is a #4 or #5 stopper below the bolt, but I am pretty sure the stopper would break the tiny flake it is behind and I know the bolt is a 20+ year-old button-head looking thing. I clipped it, but if you fall from the crux and the bolt pops you are going to the hospital. I'd give the route 1 star, but that's 1/3 [stars], not the 1/1 star it got in a local guide. It's not top 20%, but not a total bomb either.

Needs a little brushing off. Tricky, but not physical. Oct 21, 2002