PRINT: Rock Climb Earnest Stemmingway, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Earnest Stemmingway

5.9, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 0.9 from 7 votes
FA: Pat Ament & Mark Sheppard, 1980
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > W Ridge > W Ridge - part A - Ve…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

My partner wanted to climb this because of the name -- we both were hoping for something along the lines of Over the Hill. Boy were we wrong. Not only is this climb a pile of chossy rock with few fun moves, but the approach is tedious & tricky to find. Get there by going to the end of the Streamside Trail -- where the West Ridge rock runs right into the creek (as far south as you can get). If approaching from the other side, scramble over this southern buttress above the water. You'll see two ramp systems (and lots of things that look like ramps) -- take the most obvious one that is furthest east. This is marked by a model-looking Christmas tree.

Climb up ramp 50 feet or so until another twisted tree blocks your way up the ramp. Go around this tree and begin looking for a hard-to-see bolt on a shallow, left-facing dihedral about 20 feet over your head. Climb up here (or just go home -- the climbing is bad). The hard moves are 10 feet above the bolt and well protected. Pull over the top onto a ramp and scramble all the way up this ramp to set up a belay.

Rap off on the far west side of the West Ridge or perhaps go back down the ramp.

Protection

A few small & medium cams + one quickdraw for the newly replaced bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

You can see the crux dihedral in the sun (and maybe the bolt).

About to clip the bolt.<br>
Photo: Mark Roth.

About to clip the bolt. Photo: Mark Roth.

Just past the crux.<br>
Photo: Mark Roth.

Just past the crux. Photo: Mark Roth.

This is a helpful (?) shot of all three trees referenced in the descriptions. The route starts between the second (smaller) tree and the third gnarled one.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.9

I didn't think it was that bad. The moves were nice, a lot of technique without a lot of physical difficulty. Yes, there is some broken rock and some lichen. The route is mostly solid- it just needs brushed off well once or twice. Some other thoughts... I don't know for sure if this route deserves and S or not. The crux is right by a bolt, and there is a #4 or #5 stopper below the bolt, but I am pretty sure the stopper would break the tiny flake it is behind and I know the bolt is a 20+ year-old button-head looking thing. I clipped it, but if you fall from the crux and the bolt pops you are going to the hospital. I'd give the route 1 star, but that's 1/3 [stars], not the 1/1 star it got in a local guide. It's not top 20%, but not a total bomb either.

Needs a little brushing off. Tricky, but not physical. Oct 21, 2002

Clint Locks
Boulder

5.9-

For those faint of heart...or just reasonable, you can sling a small(er) tree just left and before the roof. Just extend the heck out of it. I used a dbl-length sling girth-hitched to a shoulder-lengthed one. Drag was not an issue.The crux was indeed at a 'bolt' of quite questionable quality.

If you do it, check out "Ernest Extended Way" while you're there.

I honestly didn't have too much fun on this one, and think it's not worth the effort of the approach. If you're still into it, though, check out the pics below to assist in the location. Oct 17, 2004

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

It's been a number of years, but this route is in the zone of 'one must not fall at the crux!' There are so many better routes.... Only for the absolutely bored out of their skulls. Jun 4, 2005

Steve Levin
Boulder, CO

The bolt has been replaced. The original stud was a 1" split shaft quarter incher that came out with hardly any effort. May 26, 2006

Jay Eggleston
Denver

5.9

Not the best route, but it has some fun moves and it is reasonably safe now with the new bolt. We downclimbed the slab to the north east, but I recommend rapping to avoid some of the loose blocks in the gully below. Dec 2, 2010

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.9

4/30/23 replaced the anchor on the tree on the E/NE side slab and also did a new route in the area as well. Apr 30, 2023