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Routes in Waterfall Cliff

Above the Law S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Anti-Christ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clamydia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Degeneration Left T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Falls, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Greeboo, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leading to Death T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oracle, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Located in the trees to the right of the main waterfall, this area provides good sandstone slab climbing. Featuring climbs in the 5.7 to 5.12 range, this will prove a challenging area for any ability.

There are a few don't miss climbs in this section of rock: Clamydia (5.11d), and Putrefaction (5.11a).

Most of the area will be in the shade all day, but you will see the sun peeking through the trees often.

Keep in mind there are numerous routes not (currently) included in the MountainProject list, so double check descriptions before getting on a route. 'Sport' climbs in this area are sparsely bolted so use caution and consider adding pro when possible. Additionally, top-ropes can fairly easily be setup on (or near) most routes.

This area is crowded on the weekends, though you could be alone during the week.

Getting There

Estimated hike in: 15 minutes.Distance: .9 miles

Starting from the main area parking lot, head into the main park using the Saratoga Gap trail. This will wind down a canyon crossing the creek for quite some time. At the second Fork in the road, travel accross the bridge and continue down to the observation area. The path that leads to this and other climbing areas in the area (the Muffins and Shady rock) is found by walking down the steep bank to the creek right to the left of a "dangerous cliffs" caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.

Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band. After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully ono the right side. The muffins can be seen ahead on the trail at this point. Head down the gully away from the muffins and other 15 - 30' rocks. you will approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.

Alternative directions: The path to Waterfall Cliff (and also 'The Muffins' and 'Shady Rock' areas) is found by walking down to the creek along the steep bank just to the left of a "dangerous " caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.

Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band. After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully on the right side. 'The Muffins' can be seen ahead on the trail at this point. Head past 'The Muffins', and down the gully towards the right. You will approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Waterfall Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Degeneration Left
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 70
Lieback Corner
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 64
Leading to Death
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 48
The Greeboo
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 97
Degeneration
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 101
The Falls
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 65
Putrefaction
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
The Oracle
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 15
Convulsions
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
Anti-Christ
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Clamydia
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Degeneration Left
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Lieback Corner
 70
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Leading to Death
 64
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Greeboo
 48
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Degeneration
 97
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
The Falls
 101
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport
Putrefaction
 65
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
The Oracle
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Convulsions
 15
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Anti-Christ
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Clamydia
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Waterfall Cliff »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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Photos

LukeZK Kelley
Cambridge, MA
LukeZK Kelley   Cambridge, MA
Note there are numerous bolted routes not included in the MountainProject list; use descriptions to find routes (and please consider adding to them). The bolts are often quite sparse - so be careful when leading without trad pro. Sep 2, 2015
Alan Cha
Berkeley, California
Alan Cha   Berkeley, California
LOST + FOUND POST

Hello, was climbing here today 7/8/18 and left two draws at the top of the Lieback Corner/Anti-Christ anchors.
I left them there during our session since there weren't any rap rings and was going to get them at the end as we left. If you took them thinking they were booty, no blame, but I would love to get them back :D
Petzl Djinn with orange and silver gate.
Camp quickdraw orange and silver.
They both have a brown and teal nail polish markers on them.
Thanks a ton, you can direct message me! Jul 8, 2018 · Lost & Found

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