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Waterfall Cliff Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Waterfall Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Above the Law S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Anti-Christ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Black Dragon TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Clamydia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Degeneration Left T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dendritis TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Evil Bolt Greeboo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Falls, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Leading to Death T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nausea TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Oracle, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	P(iece) O(f) S(hit) Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	2,618 ft	798 m
GPS:	37.2265, -122.1053 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Aron Quiter on Aug 20, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

Located in the trees to the right of the main waterfall, this area provides good sandstone slab climbing. Featuring climbs in the 5.7 to 5.12 range, this will prove a challenging area for any ability.

There are a few don't miss climbs in this section of rock: Clamydia (5.11d), and Putrefaction (5.11a).

Most of the area will be in the shade all day, but you will see the sun peeking through the trees often.

Keep in mind there are numerous routes not (currently) included in the MountainProject list, so double check descriptions before getting on a route. 'Sport' climbs in this area are sparsely bolted so use caution and consider adding pro when possible. Additionally, top-ropes can fairly easily be setup on (or near) most routes.

This area is crowded on the weekends, though you could be alone during the week.

Getting There

Estimated hike in: 15 minutes.Distance: .9 miles

Starting from the either area parking lot, head into the park using the Saratoga Gap trail. This will wind down a canyon along the creek for quite some time. At the small footbridge, don't cross the bridge and instead continue under some branches in a clearing which becomes a trail. Follow until you come to a wide rocky and leafy gully ahead. The Muffins can be seen to the left at this point. Either hike through the Muffins and follow the dirt trail or head down the gully away from the Muffins and other 15 - 30' rocks. You'll approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.

Old Approach: Cross the small footbridge and head left to the Waterfall deck at the junction. The path to Waterfall Cliff (and also 'The Muffins') is found by walking down to the creek along the steep bank just to the left of a "dangerous " caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck. Hike uphill to the left of the cliff band.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Waterfall Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 46 ● Degeneration Left Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 126 ● Lieback Corner Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 118 ● Leading to Death Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 172 ● Degeneration Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R 170 ● The Falls Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 105 ● Putrefaction Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 22 ● The Oracle Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 24 ● Convulsions Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 4 ● Above the Law Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 19 ● Anti-Christ Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 50 ● Clamydia Sport