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Elevation: 2,618 ft 798 m
GPS: 37.2265, -122.1053
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 108,973 total · 409/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 20, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Located in the trees to the right of the main waterfall, this area provides good sandstone slab climbing. Featuring climbs in the 5.7 to 5.12 range, this will prove a challenging area for any ability.

There are a few don't miss climbs in this section of rock: Clamydia (5.11d), and Putrefaction (5.11a).

Most of the area will be in the shade all day, but you will see the sun peeking through the trees often.

Keep in mind there are numerous routes not (currently) included in the MountainProject list, so double check descriptions before getting on a route. 'Sport' climbs in this area are sparsely bolted so use caution and consider adding pro when possible. Additionally, top-ropes can fairly easily be setup on (or near) most routes.

This area is crowded on the weekends, though you could be alone during the week.

Getting There Suggest change

Estimated hike in: 15 minutes.Distance: .9 miles

Starting from the either area parking lot, head into the park using the Saratoga Gap trail. This will wind down a canyon along the creek for quite some time. At the small footbridge, don't cross the bridge and instead continue under some branches in a clearing which becomes a trail. Follow until you come to a wide rocky and leafy gully ahead. The Muffins can be seen to the left at this point. Either hike through the Muffins and follow the dirt trail or head down the gully away from the Muffins and other 15 - 30' rocks. You'll approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.

Old Approach: Cross the small footbridge and head left to the Waterfall deck at the junction. The path to Waterfall Cliff (and also 'The Muffins') is found by walking down to the creek along the steep bank just to the left of a "dangerous " caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck. Hike uphill to the left of the cliff band.

18 Total Climbs

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Location: Waterfall Cliff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Waterfall Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 44
Degeneration Left
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 125
Lieback Corner
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 117
Leading to Death
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 169
Degeneration
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
 167
The Falls
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 103
Putrefaction
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
The Oracle
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
Convulsions
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 4
Above the Law
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 18
Anti-Christ
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 48
Clamydia
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Degeneration Left
 44
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Lieback Corner
 125
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Leading to Death
 117
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Degeneration
 169
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
The Falls
 167
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Sport
Putrefaction
 103
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
The Oracle
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Convulsions
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Above the Law
 4
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Sport
Anti-Christ
 18
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Clamydia
 48
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Waterfall Cliff »

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