Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Located in the trees to the right of the main waterfall, this area provides good sandstone slab climbing. Featuring climbs in the 5.7 to 5.12 range, this will prove a challenging area for any ability.

There are a few don't miss climbs in this section of rock: Clamydia (5.11d), and Putrefaction (5.11a).

Most of the area will be in the shade all day, but you will see the sun peeking through the trees often.

Keep in mind there are numerous routes not (currently) included in the MountainProject list, so double check descriptions before getting on a route. 'Sport' climbs in this area are sparsely bolted so use caution and consider adding pro when possible. Additionally, top-ropes can fairly easily be setup on (or near) most routes.

This area is crowded on the weekends, though you could be alone during the week.

Getting There

Estimated hike in: 15 minutes.Distance: .9 miles

Starting from the main area parking lot, head into the main park using the Saratoga Gap trail. This will wind down a canyon crossing the creek for quite some time. At the second Fork in the road, travel accross the bridge and continue down to the observation area. The path that leads to this and other climbing areas in the area (the Muffins and Shady rock) is found by walking down the steep bank to the creek right to the left of a "dangerous cliffs" caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.

Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band. After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully ono the right side. The muffins can be seen ahead on the trail at this point. Head down the gully away from the muffins and other 15 - 30' rocks. you will approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.

Alternative directions: The path to Waterfall Cliff (and also 'The Muffins' and 'Shady Rock' areas) is found by walking down to the creek along the steep bank just to the left of a "dangerous " caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.

Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band. After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully on the right side. 'The Muffins' can be seen ahead on the trail at this point. Head past 'The Muffins', and down the gully towards the right. You will approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Waterfall Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 15
Degeneration Left
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 79
Lieback Corner
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 72
Leading to Death
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 54
The Greeboo
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 108
Degeneration
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 107
The Falls
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 71
Putrefaction
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
The Oracle
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Convulsions
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 24
Clamydia
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Anti-Christ
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Degeneration Left
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Lieback Corner
 79
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Leading to Death
 72
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Greeboo
 54
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Degeneration
 108
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
The Falls
 107
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport
Putrefaction
 71
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
The Oracle
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Convulsions
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Clamydia
 24
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Anti-Christ
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Waterfall Cliff »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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Photos

LukeZK Kelley
Cambridge, MA
LukeZK Kelley   Cambridge, MA
Note there are numerous bolted routes not included in the MountainProject list; use descriptions to find routes (and please consider adding to them). The bolts are often quite sparse - so be careful when leading without trad pro. Sep 2, 2015