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Waterfall Cliff Rock Climbing
Routes in Waterfall Cliff
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[Nice] Greeboo S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Above the Law S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Anti-Christ S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Black Dragon TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Clamydia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Degeneration Left (AKA The Layback) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dendritis TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Evil Bolt Greebo S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Excessive Force S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Falls - Alt Start, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Falls - Direct Start, The S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Leading to Death T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nausea TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oracle, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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P(iece) O(f) S(hit) Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Elevation: | 2,618 ft | 798 m |
| GPS: |
37.2265, -122.1053 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 109,667 total · 382/month | |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Aug 20, 2002 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
Located in the trees to the right of the main waterfall, this area provides good sandstone slab climbing. Featuring climbs in the 5.6 to 5.12 range, this will prove a challenging area for any ability.
There are several great climbs along this section of rock: Clamydia (5.12), The Falls (5.9/5.10), Degeneration (5.6/5.9) and Putrefaction (5.11).
Most of the area will be in the shade all day, but you'll see the sun peeking through the trees often.
Keep in mind there are some routes not (currently) included on Mountain Project, so double check descriptions before getting on a route. 'Sport' climbs in this area are sparsely bolted so use caution and consider adding pro when possible. Additionally, top-ropes can fairly easily be setup on (or near) most routes.
This area is crowded on the weekends, though you could be alone during the week.
Getting There
Estimated hike in: 15 minutes.Distance: .9 miles
Starting from the either area parking lot, head into the park using the Saratoga Gap trail. This will wind down a canyon along the creek for quite some time. At the small footbridge, don't cross the bridge and instead continue under some branches in a clearing which becomes a trail. Follow until you come to a wide rocky and leafy gully ahead. The Muffins can be seen to the left at this point. Either hike through the Muffins and follow the dirt trail or head down the gully away from the Muffins and other 15 - 30' rocks. You'll approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.
Old Approach: Cross the small footbridge and head left to the Waterfall deck at the junction. The path to Waterfall Cliff (and also 'The Muffins') is found by walking down to the creek along the steep bank just to the left of a "dangerous " caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck. Hike uphill to the left of the cliff band.
Classic Climbing Routes at Waterfall Cliff
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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