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Routes in Waterfall Cliff

Anti-Christ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clamydia S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Degeneration Left T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Falls, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Greeboo, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leading to Death T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oracle, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Don Simmons and Bruce Morris
Page Views: 9,782 total, 52/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 19, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

To get to this climb: this is the furthest right climb on the rightside of the waterfall area, and the initial dihedral is usually the first thing seen when reaching this climbing area. This route involves a large simple dihedral for the first forty feet, leading to the first bolt, which is located about 35 or so feet off the ground.

After the first bolt, traverse right up a slabby face with an interesting crux located right before the second bolt.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. You can set up a toprope by walking across the tops of the rocks from the right side (looking up) near the gully. Some larger pro (2" - 3 1/2") might prove useful in the beginning section of the route.
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
  5.10a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
  5.10a
When I set a TR on this route two weeks ago (6/05) I started rapping down until I reached the cave beneath the face crux. There they were, again! The terrible twins, Vultus and Vulta! A mother turkey vulture has again had a pair of chics in the cave and she definitely does not like climbers! She made an ugly noise like she was going to throw up on me (ie. 'projectile vomit'), so I rapped down quickly and pulled the line. Beware! The twins will be patrolling the descent gully for at least another two months and mom is mean and ugly! Jul 17, 2005
Fun easy climb. Great for beginners. There are two bolts with chains at the top that can be used to set up an easy top rope. Both bolts are worn and spinning but there's a tree close by you can use to back up an anchor. Jan 10, 2017
Lukas Wiborg
Boulder, CO
Lukas Wiborg   Boulder, CO
As already said this climb is great for trad practice for newer leaders. Takes larger sizes of nuts very well (7-13 black diamond nuts) and some small ones near the bottom. Takes larger cams at the top (BD 3 possibly higher). Jul 7, 2016
rafael
Berkeley, CA
5.7
rafael   Berkeley, CA
5.7
5.9+? no way, I give it 5.6 maaaaaybe 5.7. The crack is all really low angle, def 5.6 except the one lieback blulge thingie, which may or may not be 5.7, its super juggy in that section, so im feeling 5.6. Go try a 5.7 in yosemite then see if this thing feels even close to that hard... Dec 5, 2015
Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
  5.10a
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
  5.10a
If you don't want to lead the 10a sport finish you can go left after the dihedral ends into the gully to finish it. Probably keeps the entire climb at 5.7

Yes one of the anchor bolts spins and probably should be replaced.

Also at the end of the dihedral there is an old 1/4" bolt to the left that probably should be removed. Jul 7, 2014
NorCalNomad
San Francisco
NorCalNomad   San Francisco
The bolts at the top, 1 spins, one you can kinda move...but seems decent. May 23, 2012
The crack is awesome for learning to place nuts - it just sucks up the pro. Mar 11, 2012
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
WAY easier than "The Falls". Really fun though, great route to work on some slab skills.

Finger size cams are useful for the cool dihedral start. Oct 2, 2009
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Kind of light for the grade. The Vulture was cool! Sep 12, 2006
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
  5.10a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
  5.10a
That's why Don Simmons and I put it up: to give beginning leaders a chance to practice placing trad camming gear at Castle Rock. Wondered if anyone else noticed out intent? Also, beware Vultus and Vulta, the terrible twin baby buzzards, who live in the caves below the crux. They often patrol the descent gully in the spring and will launch 'projectile vomit' in your face if provoked! Feb 23, 2005
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
This is a wonder climb and perfect for a beginner leader who wants to learn to place trad gear. The 40' of crack takes small to medium cams and other gear too. The crux up high is well protected by the two bolts and requires thin face moves for 8' or so. A very fun route! Sep 29, 2004