Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Don Simmons and Bruce Morris
Page Views: 11,433 total · 57/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 19, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details


To get to this climb: this is the furthest right climb on the rightside of the waterfall area, and the initial dihedral is usually the first thing seen when reaching this climbing area. This route involves a large simple dihedral for the first forty feet, leading to the first bolt, which is located about 35 or so feet off the ground.

After the first bolt, traverse right up a slabby face with an interesting crux located right before the second bolt.


3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. You can set up a toprope by walking across the tops of the rocks from the right side (looking up) near the gully. Some larger pro (2" - 3 1/2") might prove useful in the beginning section of the route.
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
This is a wonder climb and perfect for a beginner leader who wants to learn to place trad gear. The 40' of crack takes small to medium cams and other gear too. The crux up high is well protected by the two bolts and requires thin face moves for 8' or so. A very fun route! Sep 29, 2004
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
That's why Don Simmons and I put it up: to give beginning leaders a chance to practice placing trad camming gear at Castle Rock. Wondered if anyone else noticed out intent? Also, beware Vultus and Vulta, the terrible twin baby buzzards, who live in the caves below the crux. They often patrol the descent gully in the spring and will launch 'projectile vomit' in your face if provoked! Feb 23, 2005
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
When I set a TR on this route two weeks ago (6/05) I started rapping down until I reached the cave beneath the face crux. There they were, again! The terrible twins, Vultus and Vulta! A mother turkey vulture has again had a pair of chics in the cave and she definitely does not like climbers! She made an ugly noise like she was going to throw up on me (ie. 'projectile vomit'), so I rapped down quickly and pulled the line. Beware! The twins will be patrolling the descent gully for at least another two months and mom is mean and ugly! Jul 17, 2005
Kind of light for the grade. The Vulture was cool! Sep 12, 2006
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
WAY easier than "The Falls". Really fun though, great route to work on some slab skills.

Finger size cams are useful for the cool dihedral start. Oct 2, 2009
The crack is awesome for learning to place nuts - it just sucks up the pro. Mar 11, 2012
The bolts at the top, 1 spins, one you can kinda move...but seems decent. May 23, 2012
Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
If you don't want to lead the 10a sport finish you can go left after the dihedral ends into the gully to finish it. Probably keeps the entire climb at 5.7

Yes one of the anchor bolts spins and probably should be replaced.

Also at the end of the dihedral there is an old 1/4" bolt to the left that probably should be removed. Jul 7, 2014
Berkeley, CA
rafael   Berkeley, CA
5.9+? no way, I give it 5.6 maaaaaybe 5.7. The crack is all really low angle, def 5.6 except the one lieback blulge thingie, which may or may not be 5.7, its super juggy in that section, so im feeling 5.6. Go try a 5.7 in yosemite then see if this thing feels even close to that hard... Dec 5, 2015
Lukas Wiborg
Boulder, CO
Lukas Wiborg   Boulder, CO
As already said this climb is great for trad practice for newer leaders. Takes larger sizes of nuts very well (7-13 black diamond nuts) and some small ones near the bottom. Takes larger cams at the top (BD 3 possibly higher). Jul 7, 2016
Fun easy climb. Great for beginners. There are two bolts with chains at the top that can be used to set up an easy top rope. Both bolts are worn and spinning but there's a tree close by you can use to back up an anchor. Jan 10, 2017
D Berlanga
Santa Cruz, CA
D Berlanga   Santa Cruz, CA
Don't let the mountain project fool you the slab section is 10a, although the start is pretty easy. Apr 25, 2018
Nick Andrew
Nick Andrew  
Really fun climb with easy but cool climbing up the crack and then thoughtful 10a slab climbing past two bolts to the anchor. TR is easy to set up, but be careful of the edge. This line is a lot more fun, but quite a bit more difficult than finishing the crack to the left up the little chimney section in my opinion. May 29, 2018
Climbed on 8/7/2018 and there is still a large wasps nest in the cave just below the 2 bolt finish. I climbed the "degeneration left" chimney variation and saw enough buzzing around to freak me out a bit. My friend then attempted to climb the 2 bolt finish and the hive went nuts when he passed cave. He ended up getting stung twice on the head and neck as we rapidly lowered him (he had just clipped the first bolt). Oct 19, 2018 · Temporary Report