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Routes in Waterfall Cliff

Anti-Christ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clamydia S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Degeneration Left T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Falls, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Greeboo, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leading to Death T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oracle, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: David Caunt, Bruce Morris 1991
Page Views: 1,376 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bruce Morris on Oct 17, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This route finishes up the striking arete between The "Greeboo" and "Clamydia" and begins in a right-facing corner leading to a lieback edge (crux). There is an alternative direct start called "Excessive Force" (5.12a) that involves difficult mantles directly up to the lieback.

Protection

4 bolts; include a medium stopper

Photos

Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
 
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
 
The Direct Start has two hard mantels in a row if I can recall correctly. Only Dave Caunt and me could do them. Oct 24, 2017
Kris S
Ocean Beach, SF
Kris S   Ocean Beach, SF
Aron, how tall are you and where did you think the crux was?
To achieve the grade it seems like you have to force yourself to follow the hardest possible moves around the corner and up the slab. Easier variations (around the arete one move earlier and across the slab higher) are easily TR-able and can probably safely be led.
I also couldn't tell what the 'direct start' would be referring to. Sep 20, 2017
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Hard and height dependant. I couldn't pull the crux, though Jared (who's 6 inches taller than I) could with considerable difficulty. May 16, 2011