Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: David Caunt, Bruce Morris 1991
Page Views: 1,612 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bruce Morris on Oct 17, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This route finishes up the striking arete between The "Greeboo" and "Clamydia" and begins in a right-facing corner leading to a lieback edge (crux). There is an alternative direct start called "Excessive Force" (5.12a) that involves difficult mantles directly up to the lieback.

Protection

4 bolts; include a medium stopper

Photos

Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Hard and height dependant. I couldn't pull the crux, though Jared (who's 6 inches taller than I) could with considerable difficulty. May 16, 2011
Kris S
Gunbarrel, CO
Kris S   Gunbarrel, CO
Aron, how tall are you and where did you think the crux was?
To achieve the grade it seems like you have to force yourself to follow the hardest possible moves around the corner and up the slab. Easier variations (around the arete one move earlier and across the slab higher) are easily TR-able and can probably safely be led.
I also couldn't tell what the 'direct start' would be referring to. Sep 20, 2017
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
  5.11d
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
  5.11d
The Direct Start has two hard mantels in a row if I can recall correctly. Only Dave Caunt and me could do them. Oct 24, 2017