Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Waterfall Cliff

Anti-Christ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clamydia S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Degeneration Left T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Falls, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Greeboo, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leading to Death T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oracle, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: David Caunt
Page Views: 7,073 total, 44/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Sep 24, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This is a superb route requiring strong fingers, strong arms, and good balance and technique. The climb is found just right of the 5.7 Lieback corner route about in the middle of the cliff. The "clams" is an obvious rock formation about 35' up. Getting to the first bolt and past, to rest on ramp, is steep and fingery. Moving from the second to third bolt is a very difficult short traverse left to right on tiny holds. Moving up to the "clams" is a stumper! Moving past the "clams" requires ingenuity and strength. The remainder of the climb is easier slab climbing. Leading this route is quite a bit harder than on a TR as it's difficult enough moving hands from one hold to another let alone trying to clip the bolt and then clip the rope! An excellent test piece!

Protection

Six bolts to two bolt anchor. Difficult clips but otherwise relatively safe.
Kris S
Ocean Beach, SF
Kris S   Ocean Beach, SF
Ramp seems like should be used for feet as the climbing up the face takes you there naturally. Crux is hard, maybe if it was colder things would stick better but feels .12a to me. Clipping the bolts doesn't seem like it would add difficulty (unless you decide to clip from the bad holds which isn't a good idea ever). Sep 20, 2017
dholte
South San Francisco, CA
5.11d
dholte   South San Francisco, CA
5.11d
I got on this last year (TR) and didn't even think to use the ramp; that seems like a different route entirely. Added a photo for the direct beta, which I recall being harder than the next move to the shell... also didn't have images of the whole sequence. Jul 6, 2017
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
5.12a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
5.12a
Donkey Dong is only 5.12a if you head left at the top and do the mantel finish, otherwise, 11c. Some of the hold getting to the 'clams' on Clamydia have also broken off and down since the FA. Clamydia has to be 12a now for sure . . . Apr 6, 2016
scalparm
Vienna, Austria
 
scalparm   Vienna, Austria
 
If this thing is 11d then Krokus, at Indian Rock, is easily 12b! Feb 5, 2015
JJ Foley
San Francisco, California
  5.12a/b
JJ Foley   San Francisco, California
  5.12a/b
Awesome route.

Beta intensive...got a good round of work in this past weekend and looking to get back out for a send soon. In my mind the sequence leading up to the move for the clam is the crux. Great route, well bolted.

But...there is no way that Donkey Dong is 12a and Clamydia is 11d.

Should be reversed. In my opinion clam is harder, more technical and beta intensive. Both great routes but think the grading should be re considered. Sep 1, 2014
Pavel Burov
Russia
 
Pavel Burov   Russia
 
Fun.

Beta intensive.

The only beta I would like to add is there are *lots* of unnecessary well-chalked holds. Using all those holds could make this route even harder then 5.12, but with a good beta it is a bit softer then Nickelbag, Yosemite, Five and Dime Cliff 5.11d and just a tiny bit harder then the crux of P3 of Freeblast, Yosemite, El Capitan 5.11c.

As of 4/20/2014 anchor and bolts are in perfect condition.

The bottom line. Hands and feet sequence to get to the clam is a real gem, definitely worth working it. Apr 21, 2014
BrianWS  
Definitely harder than 11d, beta or not. Getting into the clam feature is the physical crux, getting out isn't too hard -- just cryptic.

Going direct and avoiding the ramp is doable, but pretty contrived. May 20, 2013
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
Bruce, (or anyone in the know) in case you see this... I attempted going straight up from the ground last weekend and managed a move or two past the first bolt but was hesitant to commit reaching the second bolt. Is the ramp on the left used at all to step to or is the ramp completely off limits? I gather clipping the second bolt is where you describe a potential ground fall... thanks! May 10, 2010
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.11d
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.11d
Rating this route is weird. From an on-sight standpoint, it's .12a. If you know the beta, and it's a nice cool morning...I could see it being ..11d. Or less. Best sport climb at Castle, IMHO. May 1, 2009
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
5.12a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
5.12a
Yes, the original "Clamydia" goes straight up the steep face to the right of the ramp until it reaches the start of the crux. A little more ground fall potential this way. Aug 14, 2007
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
Just browsing around and had a question about the start of Clamydia... As seen in these photos the ramp on the left was gained and from there a short traverse right is made to below the clams. Is this the actual start? (This ramp is another route which I forget the name but has a very hard crux section at the top.) Or does the original route start directly below the clams and climb the steep, thin, reachy face to eventually reach a stance at the start of the crux below the clams? This would make the route much more sustained with quite a few very hard face moves just to get to the crux. Anybody ever completed it this way? This starting face does seem to seep a bit and is often wet when the rest of the route is dry. Jul 27, 2007
Blitzo  
The clam is cool! Sep 12, 2006
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
5.12a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
5.12a
RZ, the sadistic route setter at Planet Granite, said it seemed harder than 5.11d to him (and he under-rates everything). Aug 23, 2006
Hank Sato  
 
I normally do not write comments until I send the route, but since it will take time for me to send this route, I adding my comments. I enjoyed trying this route with Paul and Nhon. To me this route is harder than a few 5.12a's I sent at Castle. I felt the crux move is about V5 and the grade may be 12a or harder. (Bruce Morris once told me that the hold broke in this route, so the route may be actually harder.) This route is also temperature-dependent, and the cooler the temperature is, the better you have a chance to send it. What's good about this route is that there are a series of difficult sections other than the real crux move, making this route very challenging. Oct 12, 2004
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
I probably should not have been the one to add this route as I completed the route on TR only and hung many times. But this route is so great that I just had to add it! I'll be back to give this a good go once I lose 10 lbs and gain twice the strength!

Had a wonderful day today and met three great guys! Thanks Neon, Hank, and Cassie(sp?), for lending Sallie a boot, letting me have a fun jump on your rope on this route, and for your company! We certainly hope that we meet up with you again. I sure would enjoy that! After looking at the Rock Climber's Guide To Sykline Boulevard, I see that there are tons of areas to be explored. Are you guys familiar with the many other areas? I will try and post my contact info in the Looking for Partners area of this site (if I can find it). Please email or call if you would like to plan an outing! Sep 29, 2004