Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Clamydia
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 56
votes
Routes in Waterfall Cliff
|
|
[Nice] Greeboo S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Above the Law S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Anti-Christ S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Black Dragon TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Clamydia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Degeneration Left (AKA The Layback) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Dendritis TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
Evil Bolt Greebo S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Excessive Force S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Falls - Alt Start, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Falls - Direct Start, The S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
|
|
Leading to Death T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Nausea TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Oracle, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
P(iece) O(f) S(hit) Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 37.2265, -122.1053 |
| FA: | David Caunt |
| Page Views: | 11,980 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Rezucha on Sep 24, 2004 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This is a superb route requiring strong fingers, strong arms, and good balance and technique. The climb is found just right of the 5.7 Lieback corner route about in the middle of the cliff. The "clams" is an obvious rock formation about 35' up. Getting to the first bolt and past, to rest on ramp, is steep and fingery. Moving from the second to third bolt is a very difficult short traverse left to right on tiny holds. Moving up to the "clams" is a stumper! Moving past the "clams" requires ingenuity and strength. The remainder of the climb is easier slab climbing. Leading this route is quite a bit harder than on a TR as it's difficult enough moving hands from one hold to another let alone trying to clip the bolt and then clip the rope! An excellent test piece!
17 Comments