Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,829 total · 47/month
Shared By: Swansonbro on May 28, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


79 Opinions

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Really fun trad or top rope route. Difficuly not overwhelming for the novice leader despite moderately strenuous start. Route eats up medium to large pieces lower down with great lieback hands. Balancey footwork needed to top out.

Protection

Medium to large hexes or cams (1"-3") work nicely, as well as a few medium to large stoppers. Two bolt belay anchor at the top.

Photos

Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
It's OK. Sep 12, 2006
Constantine Krotcov
Santa Cruz, CA
Constantine Krotcov   Santa Cruz, CA
Super loose up on top, if setting up TR move all the big rock or they will slide down. Aug 27, 2009
Brian Snider
NorCal
 
Brian Snider   NorCal
 
Fun route with a great 5.8 slab variation to the left off the same anchors. Jun 20, 2011
presto
Prescott, AZ
  5.6
presto   Prescott, AZ
  5.6
Easy 5.7, maybe 5.6, but fun climbing. Two tricams and and two scld's were all i used. brown tricam and a sling around a feature at the top for an anchor that was actually in-line with the climb to belay a second. Bolts to the left are awkward and off route.

Great for beginners to practice placements Mar 15, 2012
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Currently no two bolt anchor above this climb. Borrowing the anchor from Clamydia will risk a big pendulum from the top.

Build a good enough anchor using gear and trees directly back from the top of the climb. Jan 14, 2013
Is there a walkoff or rappel for this route? May 5, 2014
Daniel Wade
Oakland, CA.
Daniel Wade   Oakland, CA.
There are anchors on top. The two bolt 10a finish variation (Degeneration) to the right is great. May 26, 2014
Tyler Conklin
Palo Alto, CA
Tyler Conklin   Palo Alto, CA
Just to clarify, Daniel Wade (in the previous comment) is mixing up this route with 'Degeneration' which starts in a 5.6 dihedral and finishes either left (Easy) up a gully, or right up the two bolt slab face that makes it 10a Degeneration. So it is still unclear whether there are bolts on the top or not. This route is much farther to the left (If you are looking from the bottom of the falls) than Degeneration. Oct 12, 2015
D Lo  
Took a climber new to trad on this route on 7/4. He walked-in a gold DMM cam on the first placement. Couldn't retrieve it. If anyone could, please let me know. It has TD stamped on it. Thanks. Sentimental value. sdlo@ucsc.edu Aug 4, 2017
ToDoubleD Whitney
Aptos, CA
 
ToDoubleD Whitney   Aptos, CA
 
There is a two bolt anchor at the top of this climb. No rap chains, but it's easy enough to walk off, or you could leave an anchor, rap down, and retrieve it after topping out on Degeneration or another climb. Jan 22, 2018
Corey Siegel  
 
Lots of trees up top for a secondary anchor or static line. We found it a bit tricky to find the right route. If you find the 3 bolts at the top of Clamydia, then the 2 bolts at the top of this route are on the next section to climber's left. Feb 10, 2018
Anne Sandman  
 
Pretty clean line from the corner down at the ground to the two-bolt anchor looking straight along the corner. It's low-angle with good hands and clean foot smears all the way up - a great intro to liebacking. If toproping with newbies, a directional maybe a third of the way up (#4 cam in the big crack) avoids a big swing if they fall near the start. Finish with fun slab moves middle or left, or take the easier corner to the right. May 20, 2018
Jacob Kantor
Palo Alto
Jacob Kantor   Palo Alto
Is this the same climb as Degeneration (left)? May 27, 2018
Making your way out onto the face past 2 bolts after the crack (Degeneration) is one of my favorite climbs at Castle Rock. I would definitely recommend giving it a try! May 29, 2018
George Labaria
Sunnyvale, CA
  5.7
George Labaria   Sunnyvale, CA
  5.7
This climb is somehow mistaken by a lot of people for Degeneration (5.9, the right-most climb when facing the waterfall cliffs) or Charlie Solo (5.6, the corner-crack system closest to the waterfall on the left). This climb is the second corner-crack system from the left, when facing the waterfall cliffs. From left-to-right, it goes Charlie Solo (5.6, closest to the waterfall), Lieback Corner (this route), and then Degeneration / Degeneration Left variant as far as corner-cracks go in this crag. There is definitely a two-bolt anchor at the top with quick-links. The left-bolt/hanger looks a bit rusty but is likely solid. Possible lose flake at the top on the main face where the lieback portion ends, but looks fairly solid for now. Dec 19, 2018