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Routes in Waterfall Cliff

Anti-Christ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clamydia S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Degeneration Left T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Falls, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Greeboo, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leading to Death T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oracle, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,306 total, 41/month
Shared By: Swansonbro on May 28, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Really fun trad or top rope route. Difficuly not overwhelming for the novice leader despite moderately strenuous start. Route eats up medium to large pieces lower down with great lieback hands. Balancey footwork needed to top out.

Protection

Medium to large hexes or cams (1"-3") work nicely, as well as a few medium to large stoppers. Two bolt belay anchor at the top.
D Lo  
Took a climber new to trad on this route on 7/4. He walked-in a gold DMM cam on the first placement. Couldn't retrieve it. If anyone could, please let me know. It has TD stamped on it. Thanks. Sentimental value. sdlo@ucsc.edu Aug 4, 2017
Brian Carver
Boulder, Co
Brian Carver   Boulder, Co
Climbed this yesterday. I felt comfortable placing only one piece (#4 C4). No bolts, but there is a bomber tree to anchor off of further back. If you are bringing up a group of beginners and want to build something more substantial there is another tree even further back for a second leg. Doing this required every last bit of my 80' static line. It's questionable whether the climb is even worth it at this point. Best used for the quick leader as a short warmup or a novice leader for practice. Nov 28, 2015
Tyler Conklin
Palo Alto, CA
Tyler Conklin   Palo Alto, CA
Just to clarify, Daniel Wade (in the previous comment) is mixing up this route with 'Degeneration' which starts in a 5.6 dihedral and finishes either left (Easy) up a gully, or right up the two bolt slab face that makes it 10a Degeneration. So it is still unclear whether there are bolts on the top or not. This route is much farther to the left (If you are looking from the bottom of the falls) than Degeneration. Oct 12, 2015
Daniel Wade
Oakland, CA.
Daniel Wade   Oakland, CA.
There are anchors on top. The two bolt 10a finish variation (Degeneration) to the right is great. May 26, 2014
Is there a walkoff or rappel for this route? May 5, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Currently no two bolt anchor above this climb. Borrowing the anchor from Clamydia will risk a big pendulum from the top.

Build a good enough anchor using gear and trees directly back from the top of the climb. Jan 14, 2013
presto
Prescott, AZ
  5.6
presto   Prescott, AZ
  5.6
Easy 5.7, maybe 5.6, but fun climbing. Two tricams and and two scld's were all i used. brown tricam and a sling around a feature at the top for an anchor that was actually in-line with the climb to belay a second. Bolts to the left are awkward and off route.

Great for beginners to practice placements Mar 15, 2012
Brian Snider
NorCal
 
Brian Snider   NorCal
 
Fun route with a great 5.8 slab variation to the left off the same anchors. Jun 20, 2011
Constantine Krotcov
Santa Cruz, CA
Constantine Krotcov   Santa Cruz, CA
Super loose up on top, if setting up TR move all the big rock or they will slide down. Aug 27, 2009
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
It's OK. Sep 12, 2006