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Routes in Waterfall Cliff

Above the Law S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Anti-Christ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clamydia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Degeneration Left T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Falls, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Greeboo, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leading to Death T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oracle, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,065 total · 26/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 19, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description [Edit]

Begin just right of the right-most arete on the waterfall cliff and climb up the slab to the first bolt. After the bolt, work your way up a dirty crack until it ends, and a steep 5.9 face awaits you. For more of a challenge near the bottom, a .10d variation involves starting on the slightly overhanging face left of the arete and going up to the crack. Only problem is that if you're up for a .10d, you'll find the remaining 55 feet of climbing pretty uneventful. This way you'll also miss the first bolt, so top roping is probably the best way to go.

Protection [Edit]

Three bolts plus ~25 feet of 5.6 crack that you can protect with some small to medium gear.

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Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
Leading to Death has immediate exposure getting to the first bolt as as you traverse up and left the ground falls away! The climbing isn't difficult though.After clipping moving around left to the ramp is one crux. Up an easy ramp/corner for 15' or so to the steeper wall above. Well protected and not that difficult. You just don't really see what's coming up until you start the moves. All in all, a fun climb! Sep 29, 2004
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Another OK route. Sep 12, 2006
Nice route with all hard sections protected by bolts. The crack takes small pro but is usually filled with dirt. Used nut tool to clean some of it out before placing nuts. Aug 8, 2011
Fun variation is to cros over to the top section of convulsions as soon as you can ( just after the cave/roof on convulsions) makes the top section a little more interesting for a second climb - works pretty well especially on top rope. Jun 1, 2012
Andrew Child
Santa Clara
  5.9
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
  5.9
Lead this without gear. If you are comfortable running out on 5.5 trad its not bad. Oct 23, 2017
Corey Siegel  
 
To set a top rope, clip onto the bolts for Degeneration, then to Putrefaction, before making your way over to the bolts for this route. Very exposed otherwise! Feb 10, 2018

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