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> Waterfall Cliff
The Oracle
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.4 from 24
votes
Routes in Waterfall Cliff
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[Nice] Greeboo S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Above the Law S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Anti-Christ S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Black Dragon TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Clamydia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Degeneration Left (AKA The Layback) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dendritis TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Evil Bolt Greebo S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Excessive Force S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Falls - Alt Start, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Falls - Direct Start, The S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Leading to Death T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nausea TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oracle, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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P(iece) O(f) S(hit) Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 37.2265, -122.1053 |
| FA: | Marc Hill, "1991 or so" |
| Page Views: | 5,363 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Rezucha on Sep 17, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This is the left most climb on the clean face just right of the waterfalls. Moderate face climbing to reach first bolt. Straight up hard moves to good stance at second bolt. Crux is moving past second bolt to third bolt. Here the climb goes up on the left past two bolts to the top. A GREAT variation moves up and right after third bolt to a stance on a small platform on a blank face protected by a fourth bolt. The move up is incredible! You think it's impossible. Very little smudges for hands and basically no footholds. Pull up (on nothing) and reach up and left to good hole hold. This is a must do safe variation which gives huge satisfaction when done!
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