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Routes in Waterfall Cliff

Anti-Christ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clamydia S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Degeneration Left T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Falls, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Greeboo, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leading to Death T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oracle, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Marc Hill, "1991 or so"
Page Views: 3,180 total, 20/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Sep 17, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This is the left most climb on the clean face just right of the waterfalls. Moderate face climbing to reach first bolt. Straight up hard moves to good stance at second bolt. Crux is moving past second bolt to third bolt. Here the climb goes up on the left past two bolts to the top. A GREAT variation moves up and right after third bolt to a stance on a small platform on a blank face protected by a fourth bolt. The move up is incredible! You think it's impossible. Very little smudges for hands and basically no footholds. Pull up (on nothing) and reach up and left to good hole hold. This is a must do safe variation which gives huge satisfaction when done!

Protection

Five bolts to two bolt anchor shared with The Greeboo. One of the anchor bolts is sticking out 1/4 inch. Adding a long runner to a tree would provide additional security. Bolts are placed at ideal locations. Good stances after hard moves.

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The route is currently dirty and moss covered. Feb 16, 2016
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
"Clean face"? This thing is covered in moss. Oct 23, 2009
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
5.11a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
5.11a
The FA was done by Marc Hill in 1991 or so. Feb 20, 2006
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
5.11a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
5.11a
No, the center route is definitely a TR (but a good 'un). Aug 24, 2005
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
Bruce, in the Falcon's guidebook Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area, it clearly shows a variation which moves from The Oracle across the very thin section continuing on with The Greeboo. I agree with you that the straight up line between the two is great fun and is a very continuous thin face climbing route! Although as a lead, I don't think the bottom could be protected... Jul 25, 2005
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
5.11a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
5.11a
The hard variation everyone is talking about is actually the true "Greebo" line that many people avoid by traversing right (5.9+) early on. IOWs: If you're single stay single, if you're married stay marrierd - if you start on the Greeboo, stay on the Greeboo; if you start on the Oracle, stay on the Oracle! PS- There's a dandy 5.11 that runs up right between them, too. Jul 17, 2005
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
Would anyone like to comment on rating of the variation of this climb? The guide book says it's harder than the normal route. This is true. 11b? 11c? Sep 19, 2004