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Routes in Waterfall Cliff

Above the Law S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Anti-Christ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clamydia S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Degeneration Left T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Falls, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Greeboo, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leading to Death T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oracle, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,605 total · 30/month
Shared By: EmilyFox on Dec 28, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Fun lieback moves. The crux comes moving around a boulder 2/3 the way up.

Location

There are two obvious lieback routes on this face. The first is Lieback Corner. The second (Charlie Solo) is closer to the waterfall.

Protection

Medium to large nuts, cams from 0.5 to 2 in.
Semi-decent 2 bolt anchor at top. Bring long webbing to back up if desired.

Photos

Brad Allender
Alameda, CA
  5.7
Brad Allender   Alameda, CA
  5.7
Pretty dirty climb. Was a little wet and muddy at places too. The top is very loose unless you do the face move at the top of Greenbo, which is harder than 5.7. Suggest backing up the top bolts (you'll need about 15 feet of webbing), one of the anchors is pretty iffy in my opinion. May 10, 2010
Brian Snider
NorCal
 
Brian Snider   NorCal
 
One bolt is loose, but there is an optional belay tree to the right of the bolts. Definetly dirty and mossy but lots of fun. Lead mostly with medium to large nuts. Jan 29, 2011
There is a pretty good sized poison oak plant growing to the side but onto the route now. May 23, 2012
John Cervetto
Oakland, Ca
John Cervetto   Oakland, Ca
The Bolt and hangers are very loose on this route. I anchored to a smaller sized oak to the right of anchor bolts (in between the two rock formations). It is definitely dirty and risks pushing little rocks down the route. Poison oak is still there. May 17, 2015
BrokenChairs ~
Sultan, WA
  5.6
BrokenChairs ~   Sultan, WA
  5.6
There's a tree and rock to build and anchor off (bring 20-25' of cord). Rap using the bolts for the two/"three" climbs to the climber's left or walk off. (You might as well TR the 11a,10c,8+, to the left if you're using the anchors, it will warm you up for the great routes to the climber's right) Oct 19, 2015
James Ovens
Saint Albans
James Ovens   Saint Albans
This is a massively underrated route. It's a really interesting 5.6, with some great moves and great protection. For a climber learning to lead, this is fantastic. Some bold moves will teach you to climb above pro. Great climb overall May 21, 2017
Mylissa  
Up around the boulder is a loose flake, I wouldn't pull on it very hard, as a good solid yank might send it and others down to your belayer. The poison oak plant is pretty easy to avoid but it's bigger than it has been in the past.

It's a bit of an awkward start for outdoor newbies. Jul 18, 2017

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