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The Falls Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in The Falls Area

Block Head 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Muffins, The 1 / 4 / 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Waterfall Cliff 7 / 11 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21

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Elevation:	2,757 ft	840 m
GPS:	37.22611, -122.10449 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	484 total · 33/month
Shared By:	Matthew McCloskey on May 30, 2025
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

This area covers the rope climbing areas that are nearby Castle Rock Falls. All of them follow a similar approach and are a short hike away from each other.

The waterfall cliff is the most popular spot and the other main area covered is the Muffins. There are a few rarely visited climbing spots nearby as well like Blockhead.

Getting There

Start on the main trail that follows the creek, but once the trail crosses the creek to head towards goat rock or the falls overlook platform, you want to go left instead (see the gps trail on the map). If you find yourself crossing the creek after taking this left. you are going the wrong way.

You will see the Muffins climbing area on the left side of the approach trail before you descend down a steep trail into the Waterfall Cliff area.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Falls Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● Muff Diver Sport, TR, Boulder Muffins > Middle Muffin
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 54 ● Degeneration Left (AKA The Layback) Trad, TR Waterfall Cliff
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 137 ● Lieback Corner Trad, TR Waterfall Cliff
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 125 ● Leading to Death Trad, TR Waterfall Cliff
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 7 ● Left Chimney Trad, TR Muffins > Lower Muffins
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 4 ● The Falls - Alt Start Sport, TR Waterfall Cliff
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 185 ● Degeneration Trad, TR Waterfall Cliff
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R 182 ● The Falls - Direct Start Sport, TR Waterfall Cliff
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 109 ● Putrefaction Sport, TR Waterfall Cliff
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 24 ● The Oracle Sport, TR Waterfall Cliff
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 24 ● Convulsions Trad Waterfall Cliff
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 15 ● Burnt Muffin Sport, TR Muffins > Lower Muffins
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 6 ● Above the Law Sport Waterfall Cliff
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 20 ● Anti-Christ Sport, TR Waterfall Cliff
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 58 ● Clamydia Sport Waterfall Cliff