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> Lower Muffins
Left Chimney
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 7
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Routes in Lower Muffins
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Burnt Muffin S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Corn Muffin S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jelly Roll S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Left Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Right Chimney (a.k.a The Helmet Clamp) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 37.2259, -122.1045 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 891 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Riley Waite on Nov 27, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This is a fun chimney climb with its crux at the exit towards anchor. We've had fun with several unique solutions to this exit! See what you come up with.
Protection
Set TR anchor at the top of the center rock. You can access anchor from rear by following trail to the right (West) around and up. Be sure to properly equalize, since your climber will be pulling slightly left towards the chimney.
Can be led using the crack in the back of the chimney, which takes a #4 at the start and a #0.5 higher up.
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