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Routes in Middle Muffin

Devil Baby Traverse V5 6C
Muff Diver S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muffin Monster TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Change V4 6B
Type: Sport, TR, Boulder, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 134 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 19, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

The right-most climb on the Mid Muffin, Muff Diver involves a slopey start into a slot, then after the first bolt, right out of the slot. All the moss atop the rock demands that the final mantle be done with utmost care and balance.

Protection

Two bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, very scary solo/bouldering problem as the crux is very close to the top. To set up a top rope, climb the tree to the left of the muffin, which is allegedly a 5.9.

Photos

steple
 
steple  
 
Short but fun, this route features a kneebar to bolt ratio of 1! Good holds in the large hueco lead to a mantle to the anchors.

Down climb not trivial. Apr 8, 2012
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
I thought I could solo it, and then chickened out at the crux fifteen feet or so off the ground. Good thing too, as I fell when I had a toprope on a few minutes later. Cool climb though, with good rests and a balancy crux. Aug 25, 2002