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All Locations > California > San Francisco B… > Castle Rock Area > The Muffins > Lower Muffins

Burnt Muffin

5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British


 Avg: 2.3 from 12 votes

Routes in Lower Muffins

Burnt Muffin S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corn Muffin S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jelly Roll S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sticky Green Traverse, The V6 7A
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Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 678 total · 3/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 19, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Located on the center rock of the three Lower Muffins, Burnt Muffin involves a big reach to the left. Shorter people will have to be much more resourceful than their taller counterparts - as wingspan becomes a important issue.

Protection

2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, the first bolt protects the crux very well, so it would be rather difficult to cause yourself any harm.

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Burnt Muffin
Burnt Muffin
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Brad Watson beginning the initial lieback moves on the "Burnt Muffin" (5.11b)
Brad Watson beginning the initial lieback moves…
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The Burnt Muffin is the climb on the right. The top anchors are just out of the picture.
The Burnt Muffin is the climb on the right. Th…
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Top-roped ascent of the "Burnt Muffin" (5.11b/c) on the Lower Muffins, Castle Rock State Park, California
Top-roped ascent of the "Burnt Muffin" (5.11b/c…
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4 Comments

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Hank Sato
Hank Sato  
If you believe in your feet (smear), I think the crux move is not so hard.Send it! Sep 20, 2002
Nat Lim
 
Nat Lim  
 
Absolutely fun route with some creatively powerful and technical moves! Jul 7, 2008
Chase Horn
Los Gatos, CA
 
Chase Horn   Los Gatos, CA
 
From how much work it took to clean, this route does not see the traffic it deserves. Well worth making the trip to the Muffins just for this little brute. Well protected, great movement on solid crimps and slopers. If you don's stick clip that first bolt I'd recommend bringing a pad for a little added security. Jan 3, 2018
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
FA: Bruce Morris 1992 Feb 12, 2018

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