Elevation: 8,000 ft
GPS: 39.973, -105.465 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 201,116 total · 878/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Dec 31, 2000 with improvements by Bal Rau and 1 other
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

The Sport Park is a recently developed climbing area in the far end of Boulder Canyon. It is comprised of a bunch of different cliffs that offer tons of quality sport climbing and top-rope climbing. Virtually every sport climb can be set up as a TR by walking around to the top of the cliff. There have been some issues concerning the ethics of the place (many routes have chipped or enhanced holds, others are over bolted), so be aware that it has more of an "outdoor gym" atmosphere than a "wilderness crag" one. The rock quality is good throughout, with routes ranging from easy slabs to overhanging 5.13 power routes. It gets plenty of sun in the afternoons, but it can also be pretty windy at times.

The south face of Surprising Crag is a popular spot, and it's usually in the sun. Better to climb here during cooler weather.

The Clock Tower gets great morning shade and is an excellent destination during hot weather.

Getting There

It is approximately 12.5 miles up the canyon (look for it up on the left half a mile past Castle Rock), and it is about 2.5 miles down from the town of Nederland. The walls are clearly visible up on the left as you are driving up the canyon. There is a parking pull-out directly below the crags at the end of a guardrail on a right-turning bend in the road. Per usernameremoved: the Sport Park's (and other crags in the area) parking has been closed off by a guard rail extension. The closest place to park is just further around the corner on the right.

Cross the creek at the hand-line, and head up the dirt road on the other side. If the water is high, there is a tyrolean located a little farther downstream. See the map in the photos. Take a trail branching off to the left and follow it up the hill. Cross a stream and continue up to the aqueduct trail, a flat trail that runs horizontally across the hill below all of the cliffs. It's about 100 yards uphill from the stream.

Head left on the aqueduct trail to get to Owl Prow, Surprising Crag, The Visor, Recovery Room, Forbidden Fruit Crag, and the Sky Cafe.

Head right on the aqueduct trail to get to the Clock Tower.

Overhung Wall and Sport Park Slab lie below Surprising Crag; these can be approached by heading downstream (N) shortly after crossing the creek, then heading uphill to the crags.

Per Bal Rau: the trailhead is located halfway between mile markers 28 & 29.

Guidebook

Mark Rolofson has an excellent Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Volume II, The Upper Canyon. Consider it for more details.

90 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Sport Park Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Sport Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 24
Walk in the Park
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 215
The Touch
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 292
Choss Temple Pilots
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 135
Rubber Chicken
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 98
The Big Dipper
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 197
The Other One
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 153
Killer Fish Taco
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 92
The Fix
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 73
Chicken Lips
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 100
Owl On The Prowl
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 29
Butt Luscious
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 44
Linking Logs
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Furious Howard Brown
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 75
Mercy Drilling
Trad, Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 39
American Beauty
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Walk in the Park Sport Park Slab
 24
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Sport
The Touch Surprising Crag > S Face
 215
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Choss Temple Pilots Surprising Crag > S Face
 292
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Rubber Chicken Clock Tower > Chicken Wall
 135
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Big Dipper Clock Tower > Upper Wall
 98
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Other One Surprising Crag > W Face
 197
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Killer Fish Taco Surprising Crag > S Face
 153
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Fix Surprising Crag > S Face
 92
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Chicken Lips Clock Tower > Chicken Wall
 73
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Owl On The Prowl Owl Prow
 100
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Butt Luscious Clock Tower > Upper Wall
 29
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Linking Logs Owl Prow
 44
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Furious Howard Brown Surprising Crag > W Face
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Mercy Drilling Surprising Crag > W Face
 75
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
American Beauty Surprising Crag > W Face
 39
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Sport Park »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos