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Elevation: 8,000 ft 2,438 m
GPS: 39.9726, -105.4648
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Shared By: Peter Franzen on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

The Sport Park is a recently developed climbing area in the far end of Boulder Canyon. It is comprised of a bunch of different cliffs that offer tons of quality sport climbing and top-rope climbing. Virtually every sport climb can be set up as a TR by walking around to the top of the cliff. There have been some issues concerning the ethics of the place (many routes have chipped or enhanced holds, others are over bolted), so be aware that it has more of an "outdoor gym" atmosphere than a "wilderness crag" one. The rock quality is good throughout, with routes ranging from easy slabs to overhanging 5.13 power routes. It gets plenty of sun in the afternoons, but it can also be pretty windy at times.

The south face of Surprising Crag is a popular spot, and it's usually in the sun. Better to climb here during cooler weather.

The Clock Tower gets great morning shade and is an excellent destination during hot weather.

Getting There Suggest change

It is approximately 12.5 miles up the canyon (look for it up on the left half a mile past Castle Rock), and it is about 2.5 miles down from the town of Nederland. The walls are clearly visible up on the left as you are driving up the canyon. There is a parking pull-out directly below the crags at the end of a guardrail on a right-turning bend in the road. Per usernameremoved: the Sport Park's (and other crags in the area) parking has been closed off by a guard rail extension. The closest place to park is just further around the corner on the right.

Cross the creek at the hand-line, and head up the dirt road on the other side. If the water is high, there is a tyrolean located a little farther downstream. See the map in the photos. Take a trail branching off to the left and follow it up the hill. Cross a stream and continue up to the aqueduct trail, a flat trail that runs horizontally across the hill below all of the cliffs. It's about 100 yards uphill from the stream.

Head left on the aqueduct trail to get to Owl Prow, Surprising Crag, The Visor, Recovery Room, Forbidden Fruit Crag, and the Sky Cafe.

Head right on the aqueduct trail to get to the Clock Tower.

Overhung Wall and Sport Park Slab lie below Surprising Crag; these can be approached by heading downstream (N) shortly after crossing the creek, then heading uphill to the crags.

Per Balazs Rau: the trailhead is located halfway between mile markers 28 & 29.

Guidebook

Suggest change
Mark Rolofson has an excellent Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Volume II, The Upper Canyon. Consider it for more details.

107 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Sport Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 284
The Touch
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 408
Choss Temple Pilots
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 216
Chicken Hawk
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 186
Rubber Chicken
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 137
The Big Dipper
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 293
The Other One
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 213
Killer Fish Taco
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 139
The Fix
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 116
Chicken Lips
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 139
Owl On The Prowl
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 40
Butt Luscious
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 95
Alfa Chick
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 107
Mercy Drilling
Trad, Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 44
Furious Howard Brown
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 67
American Beauty
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Touch Surprising Crag > S Face
 284
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Choss Temple Pilots Surprising Crag > S Face
 408
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Chicken Hawk Clock Tower > Chicken Wall
 216
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Rubber Chicken Clock Tower > Chicken Wall
 186
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Big Dipper Clock Tower > Upper Wall
 137
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Other One Surprising Crag > W Face
 293
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Killer Fish Taco Surprising Crag > S Face
 213
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Fix Surprising Crag > S Face
 139
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Chicken Lips Clock Tower > Chicken Wall
 116
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Owl On The Prowl Owl Prow
 139
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Butt Luscious Clock Tower > Upper Wall
 40
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Alfa Chick Clock Tower > Chicken Wall
 95
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Mercy Drilling Surprising Crag > W Face
 107
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Furious Howard Brown Surprising Crag > W Face
 44
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
American Beauty Surprising Crag > W Face
 67
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Sport Park »

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