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Routes in Upper Wall

Beaver Fever S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Beaver Overload S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Belfry, The V10-11 8A PG13
Big Dipper, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butt Luscious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Go Dog Go S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hair Shirt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hee Haw S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Infa-Red Riding Hood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jolly Jug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leave it to Beaver S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mother Goose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mutant Overload S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Doze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pump Truck S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Salad Shooter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three Little Pigs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Alber, 1998
Page Views: 4,439 total, 22/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


93 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This quality climb is a good introduction to the steep routes on the Clock Tower's imposing roof. It starts a few feet to the right of the large tree that greets you as soon as you get to the base of the wall by coming up the trail. Ignore the tree placement in Rolofson's new guidebook, as he has it too far to the right. Anyways, the route climbs well-protected 5.11 moves through a small roof before topping out on a slab. Find the handy no-hands rest after pulling the roof and chalk up well so you don't grease off the slab moves.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Quickdraws are all you need.

Photos

Mark Rolofson
  5.11a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11a
I have seen it led on gear. If that is how you get your kicks, then have fun. I can't imagine wanting to bother spending the time dicking around with the gear, when I can just cruise up it for a warm-up & not have to bring a rack. 99.99% of the ascents made of this route have used the bolts. I haven't heard any complaints. Aug 1, 2017
Greg Miller
  5.10
Greg Miller  
  5.10
This can be safely led on gear with a SR and medium nuts, with extra #0.75/#1s.
5.10. Jul 23, 2015
Mark Rolofson
  5.11a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11a
Let's be real about the grade. Calling this .10a is just plain ridiculous. I have felt this climb could be rated .10d, & in areas where overhanging 5.10 is the norm, it probably would be. That said, I've watched many climbers struggle & hang going past 4th bolt up the short, left-facing crack corner. This lieback, fingerlock section is a real crux with overhanging moves leading up to it. There aren't many other continuously overhung 5.10 sport routes in Boulder Canyon. I have always felt that sticking to Big Dipper's original rating of 5.11a was wise. If you rate it 5.10 or 5.10d, all the more climbers will get on it & flail. It is one of my favorite warm-ups at this crag. Jul 19, 2015
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Finally returned to this one and got to lead it! Whatever the grade, it's a great route. Some exciting exposed moves. Check it out if you're in the area. Jul 11, 2010
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
One of my favorite climbs in the Sport Park. I typically stay in the 5.9-5.10 realm, but my brother took me up on this one and I loved it more than some 4-star climbs. A great route for anyone breaking into the 5.11s. Sep 2, 2009
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
This climb is fun, and consistently easier than it looks. Jun 23, 2007
Zach Allen
  5.9+
Zach Allen  
  5.9+
A joke at .11a. Watch the z-clip crux. Sep 1, 2005
ac
  5.9+
ac  
  5.9+
Might as well mention that most of this route could be led on good natural gear. So, it's overrated, overbolted....right on par for Bo Can. Jul 21, 2004
I totally agree with Nick. I am so sick of hearing how "That route would be 5.6 at the Gunks."And really, who does care if it's a, b, d,q, or f. Did you enjoy the climb or not? And besides, your not 20 years old anymore and the routes are probably harder than you remember! Good luck with your crusade. Jul 21, 2004
nick spoog  
 
Yes, the old Spoog-ster does care, and anonymous coward appears to also care. This is good.

The Spoog-ster cares about consistency in grading/quality ratings within a climbing area...not the actual grades themselves. We climbers should all care and make efforts to continue self-organizing ourselves for the benefit of our sport. Jul 21, 2004
nick spoog  
 
I've been on routes graded mid-5.10 that are harder than Tagger, Outer Space, and Grandmother's Challenge. So, that makes Tagger, Outer Space and Grandmother's Challenge 10- or perhaps 5.9, which means Big Dipper is 5.9 or 5.8 (this is clearly nonsense)..........

The point: it's difficult to compare trad grades to sport grades. Furthermore, it's hard to compare grades from one climbing area with grades of another climbing area. How about we compare the grade for a climb in one are with other climbs in the SAME area. (i.e., compare Big Dipper to other climbs in Boulder Canyon). The result of within-climbing area grade comparison will of course be that some areas will have a reputation as soft and others as sandbagged.... but who cares....... Jul 20, 2004
Easier than Tagger, Outer Space, Grandmother's Challenge, etc. May 7, 2004
A beautiful climb! The bat shit, I feel, does not detract from the route at all since it has become park of the rock --- like a black glue. A great workout for more difficult 5.11's. Aug 8, 2002
TBD
TBD  
Great route, very fun. Seemed easier than graded for those who are pushing their limits. May 14, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
An enjoyable route, although it doesn't look very promising from the ground. The holds are large and the angle is steeper than it looks, if there was no bat shit all over the route, it would be much nicer, but a great line dispite all of this. Sep 25, 2001