Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Alber, 1999
Page Views: 1,319 total · 8/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 18, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Go Dog Go climbs Butt Luscious, including its "12a/b" crux (really more like 11c/d), to the rest scoop at two-thirds height. From the scoop, B.L. continues up the line of weakness to the top, whereas G.D.G. heads left up a line of VERY closely spaced bolts (4 within 10 feet!). A thin short crux brings one to the anchors. Most people will find it more trouble than it's worth to clip the 2nd to last bolt.

Besides the fact that there are probably a few too many bolts, this is probably one of the best routes on the Clock Tower, which isn't saying a whole lot. Except for the questionable hole at the start of Butt Luscious, it appears natural, more or less. The grade is probably more like 12a or b.

Protection

9 or 10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b
One of my favorite routes at Sport Park. This gives Butt Lucious an interesting direct finish. I skip the next to last bolt in the middle of the crux. It takes more energy to clip it than it's worth, considering it is a clean fall. It is a nice dog bolt to work the moves. Some people do clip it. Great moves & not with big holds. Small edges, an undercling, & a high step. May 10, 2015