For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Upper Wall

Beaver Fever S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Beaver Overload S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Belfry, The V10-11 8A PG13
Big Dipper, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butt Luscious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Go Dog Go S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hair Shirt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hee Haw S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Infa-Goose S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Infa-Red Riding Hood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jolly Jug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Leave it to Beaver S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mother Goose S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mutant Overload S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Doze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pump Truck S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Salad Shooter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three Little Pigs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Alber
Page Views: 154 total · 1/month
Shared By: Kaelen Willaims on May 9, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Go out the big roof right of Jolly Jug via ugly, chipped holds. This is a disgrace, but what are you gonna do? It's pretty fun movement anyway. The crux involves a sidepull crimp and a weird mantle-type thing, which can be avoided by moving left onto Jolly Jug. Rolofson thinks the direct way is .12d, but that seems soft even for the Sport Park. Whatever.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is between Jolly Jug and No Doze.

Protection [Suggest Change]

9 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
Nice dyno though? Aug 4, 2008
Mark Rolofson
  5.12c/d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12c/d
I believe I was the person that introduced Kaelen Williams to this crag & this route. I feel I should defend this climb & critique this post. First, calling these manufactured holds ugly is a matter of opinion & one I don't share. This climb is a masterpiece with big moves & fun holds to climb on. The large hueco in the ceiling looks natural. As for this route & others at the Clock Tower that have some manufactured holds, I have enjoyed many days of great training here. Where I don't usually advocate such tactics as the liberal use of chipping or manufacturing holds, this crag was a pile covered black shit below the blank overhangs. Chris & Rick turned this crag into a wonderful sport crag. The tactics used here aren't appropriate at most crags or routes, but in a free society, there is room enough for such climbs to exist just like we have different religions, political views, & porn.
As for the crux getting over the lip, the direct line is the intended line done by the first ascentionist. These funky moves are on natural holds. I have only redpointed the climb once this way & normally take the indirect line. As for the grade, the direct line is .12c/d versus the indirect line is .12b. The direct line may be easier if you are short, but the dynos getting to here won't be. The indirect line at the lip, moves left to Jolly Jug for a final dyno & then steps back right onto Hair Shirt, using all the same bolts. Where I do use a few holds on Jolly Jug, it is not the same moves as on that route as I am further right. Jul 20, 2015

More About Hair Shirt

Printer-Friendly