Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | T. Bubb, K. Ahrendt, 9/13/20 |
Page Views: | 630 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 13, 2020 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This route is somewhat like Infra-Red Ridinghood but at the 'opposite end of the spectrum', being a 100% ground-up, natural, trad route.
This route has reasonably good and fun moves, but it is marred by an inconsistent grade, as a low and high crux are separated by a juggy slab. The upper section could still use a bit of a brushing, but it is now clean enough to climb comfortably. Enjoy the surprisingly sequential, upper crux with pretty good protection.
Location
To the right of Infra-red Riding Hood maybe 8 meters, there is a bulge in the base of the rock with 2 possible starts, to the left some cracks and flakes, to the right a hand-crack with jugs, both through an initial overhang. An admittedly contrived sit-start to either of these adds some fun and harder climbing to the route on either start, but they are not at all necessary.
Once that initial bulge is pulled, the route follows a hand-crack up and just left of a tiny pine that grows from it, aiming for the upper headwall where a set of cracks 6 meters to the right of the Infra-Red Ridinghood headwall is. Place a few cams in a short, bottoming crack at the headwall, and get established above these. Doubling down here feels like a good idea, since if this placement fails in a fall, there are going to be problems. Find a secure stance above these, and place a blue Alien or blue Mastercam in a short, parallel section of crack just overhead, moving right and then hard left on sidepulls for a series of crux moves. At the end of the crux, a good jam and a hand-sized cam placement is there to greet you. Finish up onto the top of the wall and into a 1-1.5" crack where a few red Alien-sized cams can be placed for a directional or anchor for this route and belay and walk off, or traverse left to the anchors above I-R.R.H, and lower or belay there and rap.
Protection
A single rack from small - 2" with optional 3" for the juggy slab, which most will probably just run out.
The crux gear are green/purple Camalots just before the upper headwall (double down before stepping on, or you are counting on 1 piece of gear after a runout, and a pretty solid blue Alien that is placed next and protects the crux sequence. Up top, 1-1.5" cams (i.e. red Alien) are great for an anchor or directional if retreating from Infra-Red Ridinghood.
0 Comments