Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: T. Bubb, K. Ahrendt, 9/13/20
Page Views: 541 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 13, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route is somewhat like Infra-Red Ridinghood but at the 'opposite end of the spectrum', being a 100% ground-up, natural, trad route.

This route has reasonably good and fun moves, but it is marred by an inconsistent grade, as a low and high crux are separated by a juggy slab. The upper section could still use a bit of a brushing, but it is now clean enough to climb comfortably. Enjoy the surprisingly sequential, upper crux with pretty good protection.

Location Suggest change

To the right of Infra-red Riding Hood maybe 8 meters, there is a bulge in the base of the rock with 2 possible starts, to the left some cracks and flakes, to the right a hand-crack with jugs, both through an initial overhang. An admittedly contrived sit-start to either of these adds some fun and harder climbing to the route on either start, but they are not at all necessary.

Once that initial bulge is pulled, the route follows a hand-crack up and just left of a tiny pine that grows from it, aiming for the upper headwall where a set of cracks 6 meters to the right of the Infra-Red Ridinghood headwall is. Place a few cams in a short, bottoming crack at the headwall, and get established above these. Doubling down here feels like a good idea, since if this placement fails in a fall, there are going to be problems. Find a secure stance above these, and place a blue Alien or blue Mastercam in a short, parallel section of crack just overhead, moving right and then hard left on sidepulls for a series of crux moves. At the end of the crux, a good jam and a hand-sized cam placement is there to greet you. Finish up onto the top of the wall and into a 1-1.5" crack where a few red Alien-sized cams can be placed for a directional or anchor for this route and belay and walk off, or traverse left to the anchors above I-R.R.H, and lower or belay there and rap.

Protection Suggest change

A single rack from small - 2" with optional 3" for the juggy slab, which most will probably just run out.

The crux gear are green/purple Camalots just before the upper headwall (double down before stepping on, or you are counting on 1 piece of gear after a runout, and a pretty solid blue Alien that is placed next and protects the crux sequence. Up top, 1-1.5" cams (i.e. red Alien) are great for an anchor or directional if retreating from Infra-Red Ridinghood.